Rockfax Description
Another long climb, basically following the Black Arch. Pitch 3 will be wet after rain and there are some pretty massive 'loose' blocks and flakes along the way.
1) N4-, 40m. Slabs and cracks lead to the start of the arch.
2) N5-, 45m. Climb the corner system past a ledge to a second one.
3) N6, 55m. Continue up the corner and head right under the overlap to the continuation. Follow this to a roof with a groove on the right, good holds lead to a stance just above.
4) N5-, 18m. Traverse the slab under the big block on the right to reach shallow cracks leading to a belay under as big roof. Beware loose blocks to the left.
5) N5, 35m. Climb rightwards under the big roof then pull through and climb featured rock to a stance by orange rock.
6) N5+, 55m. A bold pitch. Step right and climb the hand crack to its end then step left and climb the slab to a small groove (runners). The slab on the right leads to a belay in the gully.
7) N3, 20m. Trend left up the slab to the Bare blåbær abseils. © Rockfax
FA. Leif Magnussen, Jørgen Aamot, Stein Møller, Lena Dahl 2008 15/Jun/2008.
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Grade: n6 ***
(Djupfjord)