UKC

Rockfax Description
A lovely direct line up the south pillar. Crack climbing predominates.
Start 15m left (west) of the 'Kasnapoff Tower,' the short tower on the right of Sass de Mesdi, and just left of a chimney.
1) 35m. V, 35m. Climb a crack left to a small ledge, then climb back right to a stance below a bulge.
2) VI, 35m. Pull direct through the bulge and follow a crack curving left before moving back right to a larger bulge. Climb this and the crack above (well-protected) then move back left following a crack to a stance on three pegs.
3) VI, 35m. Follow a crack bristling with pegs rightwards to a niche, then move left of this and climb a shorter crack to the stance.
4) V+, 40m. Climb diagonally right towards the large split in the face. Pull through a bulge and continue direct to belay on threads.
5) IV, 40m. Move left then climb direct to reach a loose ledge.
6) IV, 50m. Climb direct on well-featured ground to reach a chimney, and follow this direct to exit onto the summit ridge.
7) II, 60m. Follow the ridge easily left to the summit, as for South West Arete. © Rockfax

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Route of Interest
Schwalbenschwanz/Swallow's Tail

Grade: VI ***
(Marmolada)

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