A combination of three old routes which make for a surprisingly logical line up Torre Delago's south face. Traditional crack and chimney climbing predominates. Start from the first ledge before the hidden gully in front of the tower.
1) II, 30m. Follow the gully left for a couple of metres then ascend the well-worn ramp easily right to a good ledge. The Piaz Arete/Delagokante goes left here.
2) IV+, 30m. Climb a wide chimney - well-pegged in its upper section - then trend right on good holds to a ledge.
3) IV+, 35m. Move back left to a chimney, climb this and the continuation crack then move right around a large yellow flake before a crack leads up to another good ledge.
4) IV+, 25m. Follow the ledge left then climb a large flake to enter the upper chimney. Climb this (a challenge for rucksack wearers!) until easier moves left lead to the stance.
5) IV+, 35m. Climb a short crack just left of the belay to reach a series of small boulders on a ledge. Climb over these to enter a long corner then, at mid height, exit right (Piaz Arete finish goes left here) to regain the chimney and squirm your way past a chockstone to the summit. © Rockfax
FA. Preuss, Relly 1911. Delago 1895. Piaz 1920 15/Jun/1911