Rockfax Description
Another satisfying route on good rock. The upper chimney is often wet and so is only advisable after dry weather.
Start as for via ferrata Piz da Lech (page 288 ). Follow this for 20m then exit left and follow a wide ledge left, passing under the large roofs of Fairplay to the base of the route below a right-slanting gully.
1) III, 40m. Climb an easy gully right to a stance on the left.
2) IV-, 25m. Continue up a short chimney, passing a chockstone to exit onto a large ledge.
3) I, 25m. Follow the ledge easily left to the base of a deep chimney.
4) III, 30m. Climb the chimney, trending right, to a stance on the right.
5) IV-, 30m. Continue in the same line, exiting right.
6) III+, 30m. Traverse a ledge left to reach a niche at the base of a chimney, then follow this to a stance below a large chockstone.
7) IV-, 30m. Continue in the same line, passing the chockstone on good holds to a comfortable stance.
8) IV+, 20m. Continue up the chimney to reach a bulge. Climb this on its right side to a stance above.
9) III, 30m. Climb the right wall of the chimney to exit left onto the summit plateau. © Rockfax

FA. Castiglioni, Detassis 1935 15/Jun/1935.

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