Rockfax Description
Another good line from the Messner brothers, offering fine friction climbing. Route finding can be difficult because of the absence of any striking features.
Start as for the Messner.
1) III, 80m. As the first pitch of the Messner.
2) I, 20m. Follow the ledge leftwards for 10m, to just below its highest point. The start of the route is often marked with a cairn.
3) IV+, 30m. Climb direct, between the two black streaks.
4) V, 30m. Continue in the same line for 10m before trending slightly right to reach the belay.
5) V, 30m. Continue direct again over compact slabs to join up with the Diagonal Route. Follow the diagonal crack left for several metres to reach the belay.
6) V, 30m. Climb direct from the belay, again trending slightly right after 20m aiming for the base of a vegetated crack.
7) V, 30m. Climb the crack and step right to belay at the top.
8) III+, 50m. There are numerous possible lines here. Climb the shallow corner on the left, before moving out onto the face, following the best rock. Thread belay (if you can find it).
9) III, 40m. Continue direct to reach easier ground and the summit slopes. © Rockfax

FA. Messner, Messner 1965 15/Jun/1965.

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