Rockfax Description
A somewhat inconsistent route that takes the long diagonal crack that splits the face from right to left. The route provides a useful link-up or possible escape between routes.
Start on the far right of the crag, just left of more broken ground.
1) II, 80m. Climb easy but broken ground rightwards up the most logical line to reach the start of the diagonal crack proper.
2) II, 60m. Follow the crack as it ascends diagonally leftwards.
3) II, 60m. Continue along the crack.
4) II, 60m. Another pitch along the crack.
5) II, 60m. And another as it ascends diagonally leftwards to belay in the prominent scar.
6) I, 30m. Cross the scar to belay on its left-hand edge.
7) IV, 30m. Ignore the continuing diagonal crack that goes through the roof and instead traverse leftwards following a loose ledge for 15m until you reach a corner. Climb this, stepping left into another corner to rejoin the diagonal crack once again. Belay to the left.
8) IV, 30m. Follow the crack as it rises gently leftwards to belay in a large niche.
9) III, 40m. Continue in the same line on easier ground to reach the summit slopes. © Rockfax
FA. Fratelli, Riello 1962 15/Jun/1962.
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Grade: IV ***
(Lagazuoi Piccolo)