Rockfax Description
A modern and increasingly popular route that tackles the roofs and overhangs to the right of the classic Cassin. It is very well bolted for a mountain route and can almost be considered a sport route. The belays are well equipped and it is possible to abseil back down the route (though you may need to clip some quickdraws on the overhanging sections). The rock is slightly loose but is cleaning up with repeat ascents. The crux 3rd pitch through the two roofs can be aided on the bolts (with a bit of imagination) if required. It is worth taking a small rack of nuts and cams, particularly if you intend on doing the 7th pitch.
Start by scrambling up the gap between the little gendarme on the right of Cima Piccolissima and the main tower itself. Once you get to the large ledge traverse leftwards until you spot the first golden bolt of the route.
1) 6c, 2) 6a, 3) 7c+, 4) 6c, 5) 6c, 6) 6c, 7) V+, 50m. Continue direct past another seven bolts until you get to a ledge (optional belay). A further 15m with no bolts takes you to the summit. © Rockfax

FA. Dall'Omo, Zandegiacomo 1999 15/Jun/1999.

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