NE Ridge

1. (40m) Start at a section of wavy, brittle-looking rock about 30m above from the small stone wall. Climb up along the easiest line for about 40m to a boulder belay in a small alcove with a clean looking slab slightly below and left.

2. (40m, HS/VS 4b) Step down and left to the ledge at the bottom of the slab and step around the corner and up along decent rock. Continue up a dirty looking obvious corner and belay on the next stretch of level ground.

3. (40m) Head up along the R hand edge of the ridge from here to a boulder belay with some green tape wrapped around it (back it up).

4. (30m, HVS 5a) Head up the obvious corner R of the belay, stepping out to the arete to bypass a green ledge. Move back left and climb through a steep groove and up and left to an exciting, exposed stance.

5. (40m, HS 4b) Climb steeply up from the belay heading left past some big, unstable blocks on green ledges. Climb the cleaner wall above via a L-trending groove on its L side and belay above. The ridge proper is reached by now.

6. (40m) Follow ridge…

7. (50m, VS 4c) Climb the wall above passing the overhang, avoiding sitting blocks. Climb the wall above and move L under the roof until it’s possible to traverse R to the notch in the overhang. Pull through this in a stunning position on huge holds and carry on up to the next levelling in the ridge.

From here there’s not much need for a route description. Just follow the line of least resistance through some choss sections. About 3 more rope lengths brings you to the top of the An Droichead. Finish up Howling Ridge.

Con Moriarty, Damian Garland Jun/1983

Culann ?/May/18 Lead
Hugh Irving 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S

A real adventure! Camped under the route the night before and bashed it out the next day in more than damp conditions. About right at VS/HVS, get on it!

Cillian O Corrbui 31/Jul/16 2nd O/S

Really epic mountain route, definitely worth trying. Beware of the loose rock though

Keith O'D 31/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Excellent day out. A proper mountain route. Got off to a shaky start as much of the first pitch or two was very grassy and damp. The rock sections in the middle are far more enjoyable. Lead the tower pitch through the notch in the overhang which is stunning.

with Ben M
mickd ??/2012 AltLd

Good route. Was very fast the second time we did it. If its dry....

goatee ??/2012 Lead
with Francis Jan Kluzniak
colenn 11/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Would say that Primroses is VS but it’s condition dependent. The first short pitch hasn’t a lot of gear but if it is dry the moves are easy. The second pitch has a few harder moves but has reasonable protection. After that it is similar to the scrambling on Howling with the exception of a steep tower about half way up. It’s the most committing section and we took a direct line up it which finishes through a well protected overhang. It’s a very enjoyable route overall.

with eoin25
steve.mullan 09/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Piaras Kerry ?/Jun/07 AltLd
Robbie H 18/Apr/03 AltLd

Long day - harder pitches at the bottom.

with Michael Morris
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
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