NE Ridge
1. (40m) Start at a section of wavy, brittle-looking rock about 30m above from the small stone wall. Climb up along the easiest line for about 40m to a boulder belay in a small alcove with a clean looking slab slightly below and left.
2. (40m, HS/VS 4b) Step down and left to the ledge at the bottom of the slab and step around the corner and up along decent rock. Continue up a dirty looking obvious corner and belay on the next stretch of level ground.
3. (40m) Head up along the R hand edge of the ridge from here to a boulder belay with some green tape wrapped around it (back it up).
4. (30m, HVS 5a) Head up the obvious corner R of the belay, stepping out to the arete to bypass a green ledge. Move back left and climb through a steep groove and up and left to an exciting, exposed stance.
5. (40m, HS 4b) Climb steeply up from the belay heading left past some big, unstable blocks on green ledges. Climb the cleaner wall above via a L-trending groove on its L side and belay above. The ridge proper is reached by now.
6. (40m) Follow ridge…
7. (50m, VS 4c) Climb the wall above passing the overhang, avoiding sitting blocks. Climb the wall above and move L under the roof until it’s possible to traverse R to the notch in the overhang. Pull through this in a stunning position on huge holds and carry on up to the next levelling in the ridge.
From here there’s not much need for a route description. Just follow the line of least resistance through some choss sections. About 3 more rope lengths brings you to the top of the An Droichead. Finish up Howling Ridge.
1. (40m) Start at a section of wavy, brittle-looking rock about 30m above from the small stone wall. Climb up along the easiest line for about 40m to a boulder belay in a small alcove with a clean looking slab slightly below and left.
2. (40m, HS/VS 4b) Step down and left to the ledge at the bottom of the slab and step around the corner and up along decent rock. Continue up a dirty looking obvious corner and belay on the next stretch of level ground.
3. (40m) Head up along the R hand edge of the ridge from here to a boulder belay with some green tape wrapped around it (back it up).
4. (30m, HVS 5a) Head up the obvious corner R of the belay, stepping out to the arete to bypass a green ledge. Move back left and climb through a steep groove and up and left to an exciting, exposed stance.
5. (40m, HS 4b) Climb steeply up from the belay heading left past some big, unstable blocks on green ledges. Climb the cleaner wall above via a L-trending groove on its L side and belay above. The ridge proper is reached by now.
6. (40m) Follow ridge…
7. (50m, VS 4c) Climb the wall above passing the overhang, avoiding sitting blocks. Climb the wall above and move L under the roof until it’s possible to traverse R to the notch in the overhang. Pull through this in a stunning position on huge holds and carry on up to the next levelling in the ridge.
From here there’s not much need for a route description. Just follow the line of least resistance through some choss sections. About 3 more rope lengths brings you to the top of the An Droichead. Finish up Howling Ridge.
Con Moriarty, Damian Garland Jun/1983.
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