A loop of the two main traverse problems on the Slug. Start sat at the sloping rail at the bottom right end of the wall. Climb Ames High to The Flakes. Downclimb The Flakes and then return to the start hold along Ames Low. Suggested F8a by Rich Aimes.

Rich Aimes

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Tomas Frost ?? -
Joyce 29 Oct, 2016 Sent dnf Ha ha. Some you lose. Attempts as follows: second span, fourth hold, first span and mega fall... off to Bivi Buttress.
Ha ha. Some you lose. Attempts as follows: second span, fourth hold, first span and mega fall... off to Bivi Buttress.
Joyce 22 Oct, 2016 Sent dnf Got through the second span twice; reached as far as the LH sloper on the first attempt and greased off it. For the second go, Rob gave it an enthusiastic brush as I chalked up on the Horn and I got through it and to the second pocket. Unfortunately, I'd spent too long chalking up and my hands were too cold to mould to the holds! Lots learned for the next visit.
Got through the second span twice; reached as far as the LH sloper on the first attempt and greased off it. For the second go, Rob gave it an enthusiastic brush as I chalked up on the Horn and I got through it and to the second pocket. Unfortunately, I'd spent too long chalking up and my hands were too cold to mould to the holds! Lots learned for the next visit.
Joyce 15 Oct, 2016 Sent dnf Progress! Through the second span with ease on my first go (having not been out here since May) and then fluffed a foot placement to fall off at the LH sloper. Then steady to the second span thrice more before poor ninja kicks saw me falling off. Finished with a 'back link' from the two pockets on Ames High and got through the second span and on a bit. Come on!
Progress! Through the second span with ease on my first go (having not been out here since May) and then fluffed a foot placement to fall off at the LH sloper. Then steady to the second span thrice more before poor ninja kicks saw me falling off. Finished with a 'back link' from the two pockets on Ames High and got through the second span and on a bit. Come on!
tombeasley 13 Mar, 2016 Sent dnf Should have done it today fell off last hard move because I hit my feet wrong. Skin limited goes. Feel really close. Love this don't mind it taking a while.
Should have done it today fell off last hard move because I hit my feet wrong. Skin limited goes. Feel really close. Love this don't mind it taking a while.
Joyce 5 Mar, 2016 Sent dnf Working bits of it - got through the Ames Wol span and on a move or two from the top of The Flakes, having ascended Right Flake from a sitter. Messed around with many sequence ideas for the span but the ninja kick is still the best method.
Working bits of it - got through the Ames Wol span and on a move or two from the top of The Flakes, having ascended Right Flake from a sitter. Messed around with many sequence ideas for the span but the ninja kick is still the best method.
Joyce 28 Oct, 2015 Sent dnf Worked the finish then tried ir from the top of The Flakes. Condensated, greasy holds across the mid section meant pulling harder so no joy but faster, slicker and able to recover from errors and slips better. 7 goes; bests was to the slopes crimp combo after the gaston.
Worked the finish then tried ir from the top of The Flakes. Condensated, greasy holds across the mid section meant pulling harder so no joy but faster, slicker and able to recover from errors and slips better. 7 goes; bests was to the slopes crimp combo after the gaston.
Joyce 22 Oct, 2015 Sent dnf Working from the top of The Flakes. Consistently got to the crimp/pinch near the end on 6/7 goes. Should've done it on first two goes but fluffed my sequence at the end - doh. Felt good though, conditions were perfect.
Working from the top of The Flakes. Consistently got to the crimp/pinch near the end on 6/7 goes. Should've done it on first two goes but fluffed my sequence at the end - doh. Felt good though, conditions were perfect.
Joyce 4 Oct, 2015 Sent dnf From two moves up The Flakes. Finished with 7 An Cap reps on Ames Wol/Ames High sections (12-20 moves each go).
with Tom B
From two moves up The Flakes. Finished with 7 An Cap reps on Ames Wol/Ames High sections (12-20 moves each go).
with Tom B
Joyce 20 Sep, 2015 Sent dnf Business as usual. Only one go as I have a new plan.
with Tom B
Business as usual. Only one go as I have a new plan.
with Tom B
tombeasley 6 Sep, 2015 Sent dnf Not today
Not today
Joyce 6 Sep, 2015 Sent dnf Two goes today. Got to the pocket after the Wol span both times. Just not strong in that hold. Felt like I rested better on the Ames High part today and on The Flakes descent. A good platform for progress this Autumn.
with Tom B
Two goes today. Got to the pocket after the Wol span both times. Just not strong in that hold. Felt like I rested better on the Ames High part today and on The Flakes descent. A good platform for progress this Autumn.
with Tom B
Joyce 4 Jun, 2015 Sent dnf Greasy and warm. Got to previous high point but no further. It all felt hard tonight - good practice though.
Greasy and warm. Got to previous high point but no further. It all felt hard tonight - good practice though.
Joyce 31 May, 2015 Sent dnf Progress! New foot beta for the low span. Got half a move past the low span (towards the pebble pocket) and then did the move really smoothly during An Cap reps with loads of hanging about.
Progress! New foot beta for the low span. Got half a move past the low span (towards the pebble pocket) and then did the move really smoothly during An Cap reps with loads of hanging about.
tombeasley 21 May, 2015 Sent dnf A couple of moves further, mucked it up but two thirds of the moves through.........
A couple of moves further, mucked it up but two thirds of the moves through.........
Joyce 21 May, 2015 Sent dnf Four more solid attempts that still only got to the Ames Wol Span. On Reuben's advice, will work out a less dynamic foot sequence next session to improve my chances of getting further. Final go ended at the Ames High Span - worn out. Psyched though!
Four more solid attempts that still only got to the Ames Wol Span. On Reuben's advice, will work out a less dynamic foot sequence next session to improve my chances of getting further. Final go ended at the Ames High Span - worn out. Psyched though!
Joyce 10 May, 2015 Sent dnf Nothing changes under the sun - got to the 'Low' span again on my only redpoint go.
Nothing changes under the sun - got to the 'Low' span again on my only redpoint go.
Joyce 7 May, 2015 Sent dnf Two goes. Bit of a bodged attempt tonight as the holds before the 'High' span were wet so did the 'Low' span then up 'Right Flake' to the horn before continuing to butter off at the Low span reversed, again. 2nd go fell out of the peely off move to the horn.
Two goes. Bit of a bodged attempt tonight as the holds before the 'High' span were wet so did the 'Low' span then up 'Right Flake' to the horn before continuing to butter off at the Low span reversed, again. 2nd go fell out of the peely off move to the horn.
Joyce 28 Apr, 2015 Sent dnf Three redpoint attempts. Still falling off of the Low span, but much smoother to it. Will try a cheeky rest atop Ames High next time out - psyched to smash through this move next time!
Three redpoint attempts. Still falling off of the Low span, but much smoother to it. Will try a cheeky rest atop Ames High next time out - psyched to smash through this move next time!
tombeasley 28 Apr, 2015 Sent dnf another high point
another high point
Joyce 26 Apr, 2015 Sent dnf Got to the Ames Wol span from the start three times. More steam needed as I ran out!
Got to the Ames Wol span from the start three times. More steam needed as I ran out!
tombeasley 26 Apr, 2015 Sent dnf Furthest point so far...................
Furthest point so far...................
tombeasley 19 Apr, 2015 Sent dnf along Aimes High and back across the span, hands too cold to continue, this is going to go!
along Aimes High and back across the span, hands too cold to continue, this is going to go!
Joyce 19 Apr, 2015 Sent dnf First redpoint attempt ended spanned across Ames Wol. Worked Wol for the rest of the session (best efforts yet) as got through the gaston move from the start three times out of five. Got a whiff of success; Project 'Loop' is go!
First redpoint attempt ended spanned across Ames Wol. Worked Wol for the rest of the session (best efforts yet) as got through the gaston move from the start three times out of five. Got a whiff of success; Project 'Loop' is go!
Joyce 5 Apr, 2015 Sent dnf More An Cap fun. 6 reps of Ames High to the span (on all but last go - close though) and 6 reps of Ames Low reversed to the gaston move (close to this on last two reps).
More An Cap fun. 6 reps of Ames High to the span (on all but last go - close though) and 6 reps of Ames Low reversed to the gaston move (close to this on last two reps).
Joyce 2 Apr, 2015 Sent dnf An Cap training. 4 reps of Ames High to the span. 4 reps of Ames Low reversed to the gaston.
An Cap training. 4 reps of Ames High to the span. 4 reps of Ames Low reversed to the gaston.
Joyce 4 Jan, 2015 Sent dnf Key pockets, pinch and gaston wet so worked from Slugtaste, across Ames Low, up Bicep and back down Ames Low. Got back in the span of Ames Low once out of 5 attempts. Stuck the Bicep 'move' on 3 out of 5. Left pumped and breathless - fitness needs to improve.
Key pockets, pinch and gaston wet so worked from Slugtaste, across Ames Low, up Bicep and back down Ames Low. Got back in the span of Ames Low once out of 5 attempts. Stuck the Bicep 'move' on 3 out of 5. Left pumped and breathless - fitness needs to improve.
Joyce 30 Dec, 2014 Sent dnf Progress. Got the 'downhill international gaston knacks press move of destiny sorted and linked to the end. Also, easily from the start up to the start of Slugtaste.
Progress. Got the 'downhill international gaston knacks press move of destiny sorted and linked to the end. Also, easily from the start up to the start of Slugtaste.
Joyce 13 Dec, 2014 Sent dnf More progress. Made it from the start to the jug before the Ames High span - this was slimy and spat me off unceremoniously, landing outside the mats on my backside. No harm done. Busy trying to recall the down sequence too. Conditions were perfect - so much grip!
More progress. Made it from the start to the jug before the Ames High span - this was slimy and spat me off unceremoniously, landing outside the mats on my backside. No harm done. Busy trying to recall the down sequence too. Conditions were perfect - so much grip!
Joyce 16 Nov, 2014 Sent dnf One or two slimy hand holds that were workable with a good towelling and chalk/gentle brush but feet all dry. Got more moves sorted especially the L-R gaston move. Just need conditions to improve now.
One or two slimy hand holds that were workable with a good towelling and chalk/gentle brush but feet all dry. Got more moves sorted especially the L-R gaston move. Just need conditions to improve now.
Joyce 26 Oct, 2014 Sent dnf Progress. Can now do all the moves. Got down to the gaston move from The Flakes a couple of times. Need to work this last bit as not confident on it yet. Also, did Ames More Or Less from a stand to the jugs, then down The Flake and back across Ames Low's span (which I buttered out of) at the end of the session. Gloriously grippy today.
Progress. Can now do all the moves. Got down to the gaston move from The Flakes a couple of times. Need to work this last bit as not confident on it yet. Also, did Ames More Or Less from a stand to the jugs, then down The Flake and back across Ames Low's span (which I buttered out of) at the end of the session. Gloriously grippy today.
Joyce 19 Oct, 2014 Sent dnf Slimy today. Worked the Ames Low span in reverse today as well as pottering through the gaston/open pinch part of Ames Low forwards. All a bit greasy and hard work, not really embedding a sequence, just trying hard not to slip off so... off to Bivi Buttress!
Slimy today. Worked the Ames Low span in reverse today as well as pottering through the gaston/open pinch part of Ames Low forwards. All a bit greasy and hard work, not really embedding a sequence, just trying hard not to slip off so... off to Bivi Buttress!
Joyce 12 Oct, 2014 Sent dnf More sessioning with Tom. Could go up from the start rail to the 'pebble' pocket OK, did this a couple of times. Now have a good sequence for down from the 'pebble pocket' but need to do it in a one-er and then get it wired.
More sessioning with Tom. Could go up from the start rail to the 'pebble' pocket OK, did this a couple of times. Now have a good sequence for down from the 'pebble pocket' but need to do it in a one-er and then get it wired.
Joyce 5 Oct, 2014 Sent dnf Worked Ames Low in reverse with Tom. Now have all the moves. Just gotta link it, whoop whoop.
Worked Ames Low in reverse with Tom. Now have all the moves. Just gotta link it, whoop whoop.
tombeasley 5 Oct, 2014 Sent dnf closer.......
closer.......
tombeasley 17 Aug, 2014 Sent dnf All the moves linked and overlapping with one clear crux. Should go in a couple more sessions....... Tbc
All the moves linked and overlapping with one clear crux. Should go in a couple more sessions....... Tbc
Joyce 30 Jul, 2014 Sent dnf Set to work on a few moves from The Flakes across the span and into Ames Low. It didn't go well today. Need to remember my old beta!
Set to work on a few moves from The Flakes across the span and into Ames Low. It didn't go well today. Need to remember my old beta!
Voting
High f8A+
Mid f8A+
Low f8A+
High f8A
Mid f8A
Low f8A
High f7C+
Mid f7C+
Low f7C+
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
DNF
Not Set