UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

Rising traverse starting on the left of the smaller cave. Up the pillar to the roof on 2 hanger less bolts to a large ring bolt on the left., Pull right across the apex of the cave mouth and then through the roof onto the upper wall. Trend right across this to a stance in the centre of the headwall between the caves. Abseil descent. Some bolts need rivet hangers or thin line loops, all bolts are good and the lower off is equipped with 3 bolt anchors,for a longer pitch head right towards the BAT lower off.

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

7 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dovedale

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 1 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High A3
Mid A3
Low A3
High A2
Mid A2
Low A2
High A1
Mid A1
Low A1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Middle Stump

Grade: A2 ***
(Dovedale)

Loading Notifications...