40m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An often-overlooked sea-cliff classic that takes on the Main Cliff at its most intimidating, incorporating some juggy climbing and airy situations on great rock. The first pitch is now much harder than when originally climbed due to a rockfall. However, it is well protected and solid. Start next to the huge block leaning against the cliff beneath the massive corner.
1) 5a, 20m. Bridge up the wide crack between the cliff and the huge block, and at 3m, step left onto the cliff and climb a thin crack to a ledge. Negotiate the steep wall and strenuous moves directly above into the bottom of the massive corner (good nut placement before you pull round) and climb easily up to a stance in the corner.
2) 4a, 16m. Move up the corner to a point where a line leads out leftwards. Follow this on good holds between two overhangs towards the arete, then a move can be made up to the well-defined niche. Awkward belay.
3) 4a, 10m. Move left out of the niche into an exposed bottomless corner and climb this to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Suffered rockfall since the last South Devon guide, now has a tricky 5a/b mantelshelf towards the end of the first pitch. The grade has been changed to reflect this (as in Rockfax).

Steve Dawson, John Hammond 1967

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, The Daddyhole Project, West Country Climbs, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

Hidden 15/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/17 AltLd
luke2107 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Azzy
leland stamper 26/Oct/17 AltLd O/S

Led the very lovely p.2. p1 move is a bugger.

with BU6330
spragglerocks 14/Oct/17 AltLd O/S

Linked p2 and 3, just one hard move on p1. Led 2&3.

with John
Hidden 14/Oct/17 AltLd O/S
R0BJ0N 28/Sep/17 Lead rpt
with Kellie Grice
LDJ 16/Sep/17 AltLd
with Amy
Hidden 27/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Fab route. Just one tough move, which is well protected, and the rest is easy, though exposed. Linked pitches 2 and 3 together as didn't want to belay in awkward niche.

ian hendy 19/Aug/17 AltLd rpt
with Thomas Bennett
evhall 18/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

p1 and p3 - nice route

with goat
Fakey Rocks 31/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Lead p3. Jim linked 1 + 2. Found the mantle on p1 a bit harder this time (than when did last exit) + see why it could get 5a, but Triton seems harder + is sustained top 20 ft.

Jim blackford 31/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Ran 1+2 together. 1 is Vs 5a, rest is HS 4a.

R0BJ0N 14/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Steve Price
catrin289 01/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
jhobbs 22/Jun/17 2nd dog

Got the crux on third attempt. Should have done better!

with Pete Belfield , Charlie chambers
Hidden 18/Jun/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Jun/17 AltLd rpt
steveprice.exmouth 01/Jun/17 AltLd

lead P1

with Rob Johnson
ClimbingAlex 27/May/17 AltLd rpt
georgeevans88 12/May/17 Lead O/S

Great route - crux is hard but nut is bomber and it felt ok once I committed. I worked my feet up and did a balancy high step left onto the slab. You could also have stayed low and done a powerful mantle / rockover but this seemed harder. Walk off not recommended - bushwack through nettles / thorns which ended up in crawling.

with Caitlin
m.powell02 02/May/17 AltLd O/S

Lead P2

Hidden 02/May/17 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 14/Apr/17 Solo O/S


Hidden 10/Apr/17 Lead rpt
Dale Turrell 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Sam W
G Weatherley 02/Apr/17 Lead

Lead P1 and P3.

with Ed Walker
ClimbingAlex 27/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Led P2. A really nice climb with a great, albeit, awkward belay at the end of P2. Fairly tricky move at the end of P1 to gain the slab.

with Matt
Matt Magecha 27/Nov/16 Lead

A fun little route, end of pitch one defo tested my balancing abilities!

with Alex
Trevor Allison 26/Nov/16 2nd dog

there's a bit missing halfway up.

Adam Hill 15/Nov/16 AltLd
with Pete
KDhruev 06/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Trevor Allison 06/Nov/16 2nd dog

Kai sent me up the wrong way the bastard

with KDhruev
petecallaghan 29/Oct/16 2nd rpt
EllieWoods 29/Oct/16 Lead O/S
timreynolds 29/Oct/16 2nd rpt
DredStripe 25/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

led p2

with Tom
Tippo 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Kim
Kim Middlebrook 11/Sep/16 2nd

Enjoyed a Mini epic on second stance ;)

with Dave
Hidden 10/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
MariaT 10/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

P2. Lovely route with amazing positions

with Steve Grey, James Carpenter
Hidden 10/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Gibbo 30/Aug/16 AltLd
with Ed Wright
Sam Husband 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Cool step on P3.

with Tom
Hidden 28/Aug/16 AltLd
andrew549 28/Aug/16 AltLd

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch

with Dr Matt
oscaig 26/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Once I'd located the bomber large nut on the crux move it all seemed pretty straightforward. Led 1&3.

kim.mulji 26/Aug/16 AltLd

Led p2

Motown ?/Aug/16 AltLd rpt

6.30am with a solid hangover. Great to climb with Jim again. Amount of gear a sign of lack of trad. head. Finished Gates of Eden by 8.15am, then DWSed Plimsoll Line, Aqua Marina and Eventide. Bacon sandwiches with families by 10:30am.

with Jim
keepguessing 12/Jul/16 Lead rpt
G Weatherley 11/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1 and 2 together. Well protected crux move. Fantastic position.

with Ed Walker
John Sheehan 22/Jun/16 2nd
burto 09/Jun/16 -
with hertha
Kate Edhouse 27/May/16 Lead rpt

Lead p1 and 3, 8 years after climbing it in 2008. Crux move is really wel protected, can get a nut in above your head on the ledge, a few strenuous moves on good holds is the only tricky bit!

with Charlie Chambers
Hidden 18/May/16 AltLd rpt
Luxulyan 14/May/16 AltLd
with Abi
Hidden 05/May/16 2nd
Hidden ?/May/16 Lead rpt
AngelaC 30/Apr/16 AltLd
Hidden 07/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
David Staples 24/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Jackislav 21/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

lead 2/3 together, cool positions

Hidden 15/Feb/16 Lead rpt
mark schramm 08/Nov/15 AltLd rpt

Crux move and slab were a tad damp, but that just added to the atmosphere...

with Ryan
shoulders 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S

first half before finishing on last boat...

with pete lewis
Rory Bascombe 24/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Chris Rees
Hidden 15/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/15 2nd O/S
keepguessing 15/Aug/15 Solo rpt

Sam went first in the day by the time we got back down it was allmost dark and once we started climbing it was pitch black no head torch night simul has to be the way to go 10/10 would reccomend. Ended up placing a size 1 wallnut and taking advantage of 2 rusty pegs, took about 10 minutes, not bad for a 3 pitch multipitch ;).

with sam
RM199 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S
NickJH 30/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Andy Dunhill
onlyfoddington 19/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

I lead pitch 1 and 3. Not sure about the well protected comment for the crux move, pretty sure I was hitting the ledge. It was mighty airy up top.

with Rob K
bigbobbyking 19/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Traverses felt quite exciting!

with David Brock
foxjerk 03/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with wiwwim
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead
LauraTejada ?/Jul/15 2nd
LauraTejada ?/Jul/15 2nd
tom169 27/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 26/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd rpt
cheeky 21/May/15 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 21/May/15 AltLd O/S
Craggyman 03/May/15 AltLd O/S

seconded pitches 1& 2 in one go, lead p3

Jack Wallace 09/Apr/15 2nd
ewanthomson 04/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Kimberly Jarrad
KimberlyJarrad 18/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Jack Porteous 18/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/15 AltLd
darcan 18/Jan/15 AltLd
with nick
nickstephens 18/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
with Darcan
Hidden 25/Oct/14 2nd
Lee_Meaden 03/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with Luke Robinson
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
silviac 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Sean Kelly 03/Sep/14 AltLd

The first pitch given as 4b in the new SW guide. What planet are these people on?

with Chris Ebbutt
Chris Ebbutt 03/Sep/14 AltLd

Lead pitches 2 and 3 together. Crux on pitch 1 harder than I remembered. Proper 3 star route.

with Sean
sheelba 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Echo previous comments one hard but obscenely well protected move

clmacdonald 20/Jul/14 AltLd
dbrooks 20/Jul/14 AltLd dog

climbed with a heavy back pack at the end of the day, led P1 + 2 in 1 pitch, fell at the crux of P1, I'm blaming the back pack

with gidmord
tskelhon 20/Jul/14 AltLd
gidmord 20/Jul/14 AltLd
with dbrooks
Melonfly 18/Jul/14 2nd
with Caleb
Kemics 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S

several hours of misery in hanging belay. I ran pitches 1 + 2 together. The crux of P1 felt utterly nails and every bit 5a/b but I think I came in too high, wire was at my feet not head height.

with Mel
Danhan 03/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Rob led first pitch

with Rob Johnson
LDJ 05/Jun/14 Lead
with Lou
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
dmaldonado 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with Ed Walker
guy xavier percival 01/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Pretty easy for HVS

with paul
Paul Robertson 01/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
andrea83 30/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Excellent. Lead P1 and P3. Felt easy for HVS.

with Hamish
Hamish777 30/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Really lovely route, great exposure. Lead P2.

with Andrea
Jack J Keogan 29/Mar/14 Lead rpt

James' first multipitch

James.helm 29/Mar/14 2nd dog

struggled with last move on the first pitch, moving into the belay point.

Phil79 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Good climbing and great positions. Not sure about the grade - VS would seem more appropriate for the single hard 5a move.

with Steve H
Hidden 11/Dec/13 2nd rpt
outdoorrob999 31/Oct/13 2nd
Samuel Wainwright 31/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Rob Steer
Hidden 13/Oct/13 2nd
snook 13/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Great climb, didn't find the crux at the top of the first pitch that bad. Lead pitches 1 and 3 with Will Stuckey leading pitch 2. Mark Edwards seconded all pitches. Belay positions a tad small for 3 really but we managed. Would do it on doubles next time so we could lead pitch 2 and 3 together, as the book says its a tad cramped under the ledge.

riddle 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, lovely crag, nice and quiet.

with Charles Moreton
Hidden 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
cem 21/Sep/13 AltLd dog

Led p 1 & 2. Far too complacent & stupidly fell off the crux of p1. Some amazing exposure for the grade

steveprice.exmouth 05/Sep/13 AltLd

led p3

with Jeremy Windsor
Ben1983 02/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Andrew Sloan 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led first 2 pitches as 1. The 5a crux is awkward.

Martin Haworth 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Norman_P_W 22/Aug/13 AltLd
with Bob M
climbtim 22/Aug/13 AltLd

Step (5a move) on first pitch is the crux, but you can get a nut above you to protect the move

Hidden 22/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Bob M 22/Aug/13 AltLd

Led pitch 2. Did this in 1983 before the rockfall when it was HS.

Hidden 28/Jul/13 Lead
Grabtheslab 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Lead all three pitches, last move of the first pitch is the crux of the route, but really well protected , boiling hot day, did the pimsole traverse afterwards

Georgia H ?/Jul/13 Lead
steve-grigg 24/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Leo
Webster 21/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

lead top 2 pitches as 1. terrible rope drag but awesome climbing! easy but exposed. Vs5a

leo-z-g 21/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch then Steve lead the next two in one

Huw Mithan 21/Jun/13 AltLd
with Nina Reinschmidt
Zoomer 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant varied climbing that is well protected throughout. Don't bother trying to cross onto the slab(crux), place a high right runner, back climb a little and go direct. 2nd belay pegs are shocking but good gear. Very exposed last two pitches. One of the best multi pitches i've climbed and Jules first multi HVS (although it's nearer to VS 5a).

gripped01 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd & 3rd pitch as one

with Jim Jarvis
Merlin 15/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P2&3 together. Great route, superb position on great holds.

with Dave Tait
BelayBunney 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Lead P1+P2 together. Francois lead P3. Nice climb - soft for a HVS (basically there is one 5a move)

francois 01/Jun/13 2nd
with Chris
Hidden 21/May/13 2nd
Hidden 21/May/13 Lead
Hidden 10/May/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 10/May/13 2nd
Infinite Granite 03/May/13 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climb, lovely easy moves but on really exposed positions so you can really feel it! Had a massive epic on the boulder field below when we were done, rockfall caught us as we were moving another route :(

with Joey
Hidden 18/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 18/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Jack J Keogan 15/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Ewan strung P1&2 together with a direct start.

with Ewan Davies
kennythescot ?/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Climbed with Dave Mitchell

Cheese Monkey 06/Jan/13 AltLd rpt

Excellent still

with Iain
Grabtheslab ??/2013 -
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Cheese Monkey 05/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Quality route, loved the exposure but the climbing was very very easy for the grade. The 5a mantel was tricky though. Pulled a large chunk out of the p3 crack which added a bit of spice at the end!

with Ian M
Ian Miller 05/Dec/12 2nd
Jack J Keogan 07/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Great lead - snuck out on a day free of lectures and rain to give it a go. Lead all 3 pitches without too much trouble, although messed up rope handling at first belay a little. Thankfully sorted for the awkward second stance. Lottie's first multipitch (and just after our anniversary) so great to be on the cliff with her! Only vaguely hard moves at the end of the first pitch, and not above 4c. I think I used a different sequence to usual - no sign of the 5a/b mantle the guide books talk about?

Lottie T 07/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Motown 20/Oct/12 AltLd rpt
with Mike
Kevster 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Motown 13/Oct/12 AltLd rpt
with Luke
Mr Tickle 13/Oct/12 AltLd

Led P2, great climb, definitly a VS though.

with Will
Stanners 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Really good, but VS 4c. Did the top pitch. 3 people on the 2nd belay was a bit snug.

with James Rich, Mark Davis
Mark Davies PK 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Brilliant. No Way HVS 5a - possibly only still HS. crux is very well prtected 4c if you come in from the right. Linked p1+2

with Rob and James
JamesRich 29/Sep/12 AltLd β

More like VS. not many better ways to spend your birthday.

Homes 29/Sep/12 AltLd
with Dan W
Philippa Arding 06/Sep/12 AltLd

finished in the dark!

with jo nosworthy
Dave Rumney 01/Sep/12 AltLd

HS/VS at most

with Tanya Milner
timreynolds 08/Aug/12 AltLd
with stuartf
timstyles 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Me P1+3, Jon P2. A 3 star HS with one safe 5a move.

jon bradley 22/Jul/12 AltLd
Thunderthighsontheloose 18/Jul/12 2nd

Happy 30th birthday Mike!

Motown 27/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Paul
paul reah 27/Jun/12 2nd O/S

First time at Daddyhole, fantastic climb, first pitch crux is fun, just give it maximum beans and all is good, I may retract this statement when I return to lead it :-D 2nd belay is immense, just hang out and enjoy the view (dont forget to belay though, top pitch has brilliant exposure, defo 3*

Mike_Hayes 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S

My 30th Birthday - Awesome positions

rustyfishhook 18/Jun/12 2nd O/S

LEGENDARY ROUTE! first big trad route with hanging belay.

Paul_southgate68 18/Jun/12 Lead rpt

Great route and a top way to end a great day. Done in two pitches.

tobydunford 04/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 26/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/May/12 2nd
SteveoS 13/May/12 2nd O/S

Second due to a sprained ankle. Found a terrified Dougie at the second belay whose gear decided to pop after he started the 3rd pitch. Great end to the day!

with Doug Miller
ed2204 13/May/12 2nd
Doug miller 13/May/12 Lead rpt

all 3 pitches

cwildblood 13/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/12 2nd O/S
rustaldo 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

a nice route, quite soft for HVS. Kit lead the middle pitch and tried to sterilise it by placing nearly the entire rack!! Abbed back down from a "shrub".

Hidden 31/Mar/12 AltLd
Joel Perkin 09/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Excellent climbing, very exposed.

with Alex Butler, Simon Hammond, Mike Garret
Sarah Welsh 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Mark Schramm led first two pitches as a single pitch. Sarah W led final, 3rd pitch

Hidden 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
mark schramm 12/Feb/12 Lead rpt
with Sarah W
jezb1 07/Jan/12 AltLd

P1 + p3, nice route. Prob vs 5a, crux is very well protected.

Ybot Htulk 06/Jan/12 AltLd

Tried to do Last Exit To Torquay, but could'nt even get through first overhang. Maybe not a good first post xmas trad lead. Finished up Gates of Eden

with Jez
DanDevey94 ??/2012 2nd O/S
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd O/S
Doug miller 27/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
JoeMortimer 27/Nov/11 AltLd

Doug M = 1st Pitch, Me = 2nd Pitch, Doug M = 3rd Pitch. Amazing climbing.

nick99 23/Oct/11 AltLd
with julian h
Hidden 23/Oct/11 AltLd
gfoster 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
JackHatton 24/Sep/11 AltLd rpt

awsome route ive done all 3 pitchs my partner thought i was a crazy man for hanging of two of the pegs and a size 8 nut:L

with richy mardell
JackHatton 16/Sep/11 AltLd RP
with richy mardell
timrowland 28/Aug/11 AltLd
with Rob H, jmjw
jmjw 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Rob H, Tim R
Hidden 26/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Noodles 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S

A good route going through some impressive ground. lots of nice holds and gear wehn you need it most. Loved the exposure of the 2nd pitch!

with Mollie Hughes
Hidden 16/Aug/11 2nd
Eike 03/Aug/11 AltLd

Ben led 1st and 2nd pitch, I led the 3rd.

with Ben Devenish
jbulger 30/Jul/11 AltLd
with Geoff, Pete
Pete Scott 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lead the last pitch. Plenty of bodged ropework.

Motown 28/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
with Richy
minexplorer 25/Jun/11 AltLd

repeat.led 1st/2nd pitches in one luke led 3rd

with luke
Ybot Htulk 10/Jun/11 AltLd
with Richard
Hidden 06/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Richard Morgan ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch

Hidden 24/May/11 AltLd O/S
gidmord 22/May/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch

with Alex
AlexD 22/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Gideon
petecallaghan 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Jess Gribble
elbeanio 23/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Frostie 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Is it a 5a move don't think so, more like 4b or may be 4c tops.

Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd
little_tammy 17/Apr/11 2nd O/S
francois 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Tammy
kyebrooks 17/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with tim wade
JulesClimbs 14/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Hidden 12/Apr/11 2nd
steveprice.exmouth 12/Apr/11 Lead
with Emgrant
NathanC 1994 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Lead The 3rd Pitch!

dmoir 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Rosie Crossley
Pete Nugent 07/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Tough moves on p1 - took me awhile to work them out. Excellent positions, good friction.

with Andy Peasgood
Hidden 04/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
NathanC 1994 04/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Best Climb Ive Done Yet, Only Led The 2nd Pitch But The Cave To Belay From Is Amazing Looking Over Everything :D All In All Awsome Climb

kyebrooks 03/Apr/11 Lead rpt
kyebrooks 02/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Davebryant ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Bryn Mays, Tom Brown
crimpy69 ?/Apr/11 AltLd
kyebrooks 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
brynmays 26/Mar/11 AltLd RP

lead the 1st and 3rd pitch, really good climb. on the first mantle there was a bit of blind feeling but after that it was fine. some fun belay pitches.

TerryLines 23/Mar/11 -
althesin 20/Mar/11 2nd

A true epic

with Reds
Reds 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
brynmays 19/Mar/11 Lead dnf
kyebrooks 19/Mar/11 Lead dnf

ahhh got sketched out on the 1st pitch post that grassy ledge onto the diagonal ledge came off seconder went up got up towards the crack of LAT and had to come down himself annoying abd in to retrieve gear peg has gone completely... will be returning after alot of hangboard work...

Tom D 12/Mar/11 AltLd

A Nice climb. i knew the first was harder than my guide book said!! dunno bout hvs tho?

Ed morris 08/Feb/11 Lead O/S

all pitches. stupendous climbing

with ewan
tommoulds 05/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with Schramm
mark schramm 05/Feb/11 AltLd
with tom m
Hidden 24/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jan/11 AltLd
Paul_southgate68 20/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

what a fantastic climb. done in glorious sunshine on perfect rock! tricky mantle on p1, p2 is out there with a wild belay, p3 is also good!! one of the best hvs's i've done ***

with super gav
ewanthomson 08/Jan/11 2nd O/S

Incredible! Real sense of height with some interesting belay positions

Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
mark schramm 28/Oct/10 Lead

lead pitches 3 and 3

with steve P
Alex T (RAFMA) 04/Oct/10 AltLd
with Rimon
Steve Woollard 02/Oct/10 AltLd

First pitch is desperate since rock fall, also climb is very polished. Not as good as it used to be.

Haytor_Haggis 02/Oct/10 AltLd

led 2nd pitch

Abi Chard 30/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Ian
Hidden 30/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
andy dunn 26/Sep/10 AltLd

lead P2

with J
Dawlish 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S

had fun on this one! the Coastguard came along and winched my second off without being asked to do so leaving us to re climb it to get our gear back

Aaron Phillips 04/Sep/10 2nd dnf

got to the traverse then coastguard came to say hello and gave me a free ride in the helicopter.

with my dad
Aaron Phillips 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

after some time and much consideration we managed to split one 50m rope and reclimb it to retrieve our gear (and rope).

with my dad
Hidden ?/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead
justin burgoyne 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Charlie Ross 16/Aug/10 AltLd

Me & Knocker joint lead, great day

Neil Rigiani 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/10 AltLd
Ybot Htulk ?/Aug/10 AltLd

Led P1 and 3. Big exposure with big holds, great. 5a bit was interesting too.

with Sonya
Homes 10/Jul/10 AltLd
with Jonny C
jcook1980 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
emsywemsy 08/Jul/10 2nd
emsywemsy 08/Jul/10 2nd
mikeburf 23/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch didn't think it was 5a, Maybe hard 4b soft 4c?

with Shaun
minexplorer 23/May/10 Lead O/S

wow fantastic.felt brilliant sussing the move at bottom.ran pitch 1&2 together prot sparse but lots of good holds.what a great belay stance.

with grant newcombe
Paragonthewise 22/May/10 2nd

this was an amazing climb, i did my first 5a and loved the entire climb, found it was fairly easy climb, lots of foot and hand holds, nice grippy rock, good leads from my partner

RandomHero 10/May/10 AltLd O/S

Cracking climb, lead the first pitch, the rock-over mantle is cheeky but nothing much to worry about. Chris combined the 2nd & 3rd pitches into one.

with Chris Malin
Hidden 19/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 19/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

1st and 3rd pitch. Good route.

nickdonohue ??/2010 Lead
with Steve ?
Steve Lenartowicz ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd rpt
sgl 12/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Susie
FayeG 12/Aug/09 2nd

With the hangover from hell, we set off for a "nice easy HS". 20 mins of faffing on the first pitch later, we were still trying to work out why it was so hard for something that was ungraded or whether we were still pissed. Also a wee bit worried about what the hardness of this pitch meant for the next two pitches! Just about to back off when another pair of climbers arrived and explained about the change. Confidence resumed, up we went. What a MENTAL stance at the top of the second!

with Rory
ruaidh 12/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Such thing as a HS 5a? Mantle on P1 not that hard if you find the moves. The little under cut at the corner will take a couple of bomber cams (no.2 and 4 I think). Key for me was gettign my right hand in an away facing undercut hold at chest high just round the corner to enable a step up to a good waist-high right foothold.

with FayeG
surfbish 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Second pitch is fantastic, jugs keep coming but the position and belay stance/slope one of the best ever.

with Hugh
henbot 10/Aug/09 AltLd
with Duncan
Duncan Campbell 10/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

piece of piss last pitch was done quickly before it got dark!!! VS 4c at most no 5a move anywhere!!

with Henry
37degrees 10/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Did't know about the new grade!

with Matthew Ellis
Hidden 10/Jul/09 AltLd
James Mitchelmore 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
LaybackLizzie 16/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Hanging belay gets cold towards sunset

Hidden 16/Mar/09 Lead rpt
northnorthnorth 16/Feb/09 Lead O/S

Led 1st and 3rd pitch. Loved it!

with Ben Watts
nick99 ??/2009 AltLd
Hidden ??/2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
rockjedi12345 02/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/08 Lead dnf
dan gibson 25/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
jon thompson27 26/Sep/08 Lead O/S

3rd lead repeat, aim for a solo next shot. It just gets better!!!

with Roger Wickham
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead
Hidden 22/Jun/08 Lead dnf
Popkids 30/May/08 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch

with Kafoozalem
sharmawho? 05/May/08 Lead O/S
with Dave, Sim
existing debt ?/May/08 -
with Iain a
Hidden 05/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/08 Lead
Kate Edhouse ?/Jan/08 2nd O/S
with James Clapham
sharmawho? ??/2008 Lead O/S
with nick dave
Hidden ??/2008 -
sebrider ??/2008 AltLd O/S

Someone actually voted this HVS, the its only one move!! Great route and last stance.

OliBoyes ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Harry Smale
Steerpike 10/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
with Bruce
Hidden ?/Nov/07 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Macca_7 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Good route up a striking feature. Move over the bulge harder to contemplate than do! Hot day! Nice Swim!

eugeneth 12/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Seb
jon thompson27 ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Love it!! What an awesom magical mystery tour that was!

with ben harden
jon thompson27 ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Awesom in everyway, crux has to be the rock over & mantle onto the slab slipped a no. 3 friend for lover's sake & lost my good handhold. Joy

with ben harden
w.pettet-smith ?/Jul/07 -

top bit very exciting- pretty pumpy and i was seconding. am a wimp though.

Justin T 29/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with Lynsey
Justin T 17/Jun/07 2nd rpt
with Clara
Dave Searle 04/Jun/07 Lead
with mark
Justin T 13/May/07 Lead rpt

A bit damp. Dive-bombed by seagulls at crux. Waterfall at first belay. Ropes tangled at second. Highly recommended! Peg on 1st belay is RUSTED THROUGH if you look closely at it...

with Wifey
Okecroak 22/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with M Mercy, C. Ebbutt
Chris Ebbutt 22/Apr/07 AltLd
with Dave R.
AJH 15/Apr/07 AltLd rpt

Completed after a retreat from LET

with Crispin
Hidden 07/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Justin T 31/Mar/07 AltLd rpt


with Martin
Jon Evans 12/Mar/07 AltLd

Bird nest well protected by seagulls!!!??

with Rob
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden 03/Nov/06 2nd rpt
Justin T 03/Nov/06 Lead rpt

Just remember, at the second belay, you go left to find a nice corner / crack. You don't forget the guidebook, try to finish up the last pitch of Gargantua, think 'damn I must be crap today' then ab off and have to return two days later to finish it properly... Post-rockfall mantel move on 1st pitch could be offputting if you weren't expecting it.

with Wifey
sam coward 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Pegs have seen better days. Back them up!

with Wayne
manwithacam 26/Sep/06 AltLd

Didnt know about rock fall and confounded for while.

with Martin
Jon_Warner 30/Jul/06 2nd O/S

1 very hard move

with Dave B
Hidden 30/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Dave Searle 01/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with sim
Hidden 27/May/06 Lead O/S
babymoac 29/Apr/06 Lead
with cash
Kyuzo 29/Jan/06 Lead O/S

Very enjoyable, exposed moves, mostly very easy but one hard move, 5a maybe?

with Hal Watts
hal ?/Jan/06 -
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
richardr ?/Oct/05 -

Too unbalanced to get 3 stars now.

Hidden 19/Jun/05 AltLd
chris sm ?/Apr/04 Lead
with Pippa Froggatt
Stig ?/Apr/04 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Jonathan Teale
charlesmfrench 27/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Alexa
BALD EAGLE 26/Oct/03 Lead
with Phillipa Beale
eddy-on-the-rocks ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S

Robby's final climb and massive winger!

with Rob
Okecroak 09/May/02 AltLd

HS -, 4b, 4a

Hidden 18/Apr/02 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/01 AltLd
Hidden 09/Aug/00 AltLd
duncan 21/Apr/00 Lead
with Dan Donovan
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
alan moore ??/2000 -

At the time, the most exposed HS in Britain...

CraigMac1 ??/2000 -
mikej 10/Oct/99 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Mickdenali ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Mark Harvey
AJH ??/1999 2nd O/S
with Henk
andy_pemberton ??/1998 Lead
Hidden 04/Mar/97 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1995 -
with Mark Carnall
Simon cook ??/1994 -
colin milton 28/Aug/93 Lead
with eric milton
FATBOYFAT ??/1993 -

Everything a classic sea cliff should be

Rog Wilko ?/Aug/92 AltLd
with Debbie Wilkinson
rogerskews 25/May/92 AltLd
with Martin Coward
Hidden 25/Apr/92 2nd
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Aug/90 Lead O/S

Only HS when I've done it...

with Roger Howarth
Hidden 13/May/90 Lead O/S
sdht ??/1990 -
ecowaller ??/1990 -
Mozer ??/1987 AltLd O/S
RichardMc 19/Apr/86 AltLd O/S
with Jon Clifford-Smith
clark alston ?/Jan/86 Lead O/S


with Alan Pow
ukb & bmc shark 03/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Gary from art college
Hidden 12/Jun/83 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 07/May/83 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby, Pam Holt
Andy Fielding ??/1983 AltLd
with Mark Williams
Mike C 07/Nov/81 Lead
with Sian Aubrey
Mike C 24/Feb/80 AltLd
Brian Wilderspin 24/Feb/80 AltLd
with Mike C
mark-abz 24/Feb/80 Lead
with Rob S
Mike C 18/Jun/78 AltLd
with Roger ?
Steve Bell ??/1976 -
with Chris Gibson
Steve Woollard ??/1973 Lead
Hidden ??/1970 AltLd
deklan ??/ AltLd
with trev
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 75
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 100
Votes cast 99
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set