UKC

46m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An overlooked sea-cliff classic that takes on the cliff at its most intimidating, incorporating some juggy climbing and airy situations on great rock. Start next to the huge block leaning against the cliff beneath the massive corner.
1) 5a, 20m. Bridge up the wide crack between the cliff and the huge block, and at 3m, step left onto the cliff and climb a thin crack to a ledge. Negotiate the steep wall and strenuous moves directly above into the bottom of the massive corner (good nut placement before you pull round) and climb easily up to a stance in the corner.
2) 4a, 16m. Move up the corner to a point where a line leads out leftwards. Follow this on good holds between two overhangs towards the arete, where a move can then be made up to the well-defined niche. Awkward belay.
3) 4a, 10m. Move left out of the niche into an exposed bottomless corner and climb this to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This has suffered from a slight rockfall and the grade is now E1 5b.

FA. Steve Dawson, John Hammond 1967.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , The Daddyhole Project , West Country Climbs , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Moving to Devon , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Mid Grade Culm, Lizard and Devon , South West Coastal Solo , The South Devon Time Machine (Part I)

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Exmoor Coast Traverse (full version)

Grade: VS ***
(The Exmoor Coast Traverse)

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