UKC

200m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 170m. A cracking little route, which packs quite a punch in places. Start just to the left of a prominent pillar.
Approach - From the Montenvers train, take the lower of the two paths (the one that doesn't go via 'Le Signal') heading towards the 'Plan de l'Aiguille'. Follow this for 45 minutes until it meets up again with the higher path at a signpost. (NOTE - this sign says that Montenvers is 1 hour 10 minutes away via both paths. The reality (for when you're descending) is that the higher path takes about that long but the lower path will have you back to the train in a little over 30 minutes).
From the signpost, continue towards the Plan de l'Aiguille for 300m until a vague path leads off left, directly towards the Aiguille de l'M, just before the main path descends slightly. The vague path climbs for 10 minutes and then reaches a boulderfield. Continue straight across this and then begin to look for the cairns which mark the way. Follow the path as best you can (not easily done) as it takes you onto and up the long scree slope below the peak. The vague path from here is rarely clear and at times it may feel easier just to plough on up the scree slope, picking the easiest looking line and heading straight for the foot of the route.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb a blocky groove up and left to a good ledge.
2) 4c, 25m. Step back right and continue up the groove to the top of the pillar.
3) 5c, 20m. Head boldly up the left-hand side of the huge and seemingly detached flake at the top of the pillar. Then step left into an excellent, steep corner-crack and follow this to a ledge.
4) 5b, 20m. Climb the excellent twin cracks above and continue up a corner.
5) 5c, 20m. Head up the steep cracks, go through a small roof and then step left to belay beneath the crux pitch.
6) 6b, 30m. A tough pitch which is often greasy long after precipitation; if you pull on one of the many pegs around here you wouldn't be the first climber to do so! Climb the corner above and right of the belay and then the thin jamming crack.
7) 5b, 30m. Move left into a corner system and follow this to the top.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. From the top it is also possible to carry on to the summit, but the difficulty of the climbing on the route puts most people off carrying a bag. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
UIAA VI+ (the Piola guide gives the crux pitch French 6a/b). Some in situ aid. Harder and more sustained than the Voie Couzy.

J and S Menegaux and J Poullain Aug/1948

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.


ClimberDateStyle
ndraper1 07/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Took a nice high path through the morraines only to be scuppered on the last one below the nantillons as you can only really approach the M from below- lesson learned, listen to the guidebook! Lost an hour or so there. First two pitches are excellent, ran them together in big boots, belay on top of the pillar. Pitch 3 is superb, sustained and exposed! Broken ground/hanging surf boards/chimneys lead to the crux. We stepped right 3m to awkwardly join the thin crack that leads to a muddy chimney(6a/b part of the Menegaux direct) the actual route goes straight above the belay but was pretty filled with moss at first glance but it is the way to go. From the belay(block) above step left airily through more broken ground, a steep step and then easy ground to the summit of the left M. We had a 60m and rapped mainly 30's, some 10's(pegs/blocks bounce check first) back to the base so in future not essential to carry all your kit. Expect a classic climbing style.

with Flynn
Sam Marks 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with George Newham
Martin Haworth 24/Jul/15 AltLd

Sustained route, crux pitch was very hard and required some peg pulling. 5 hours on the route, topped out just as the storms were starting. Miserable descent in heavy thunder storms, missed last bin, 3.5 hours descending.

NewHam ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
nmcgreen 28/Jun/14 AltLd
with kdo
kdo 28/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

We bailed a pitch from the top in lots of mist, abseil was good practise

Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
CarolineH 01/Jul/10 -
with Dave
Bristoldave 01/Jul/10 Lead

Used a little aid where I went the wrong way one place. Did the cruxes free.

Tobias at Home 29/May/09 -
with gregoire
tommytuffa 13/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with ollie b
1202alarm ?/Jun/04 -
ian bryant ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with john
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd
Jim Walton 25/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Matthew Stammers
andy_pemberton ?/Aug/96 -
with Jon Scorer
NickJH ?/Jul/96 AltLd
NickJH ?/Jul/96 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/92 AltLd
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
Tony Kartawick ?/Aug/91 AltLd

Nice crag climb fitted into a weather window

with James Thomas
Hidden ??/1991 -
Hidden 24/Aug/90 AltLd O/S
mark-abz ?/Aug/88 AltLd
with Andy W
michael burrows 23/Jul/88 AltLd O/S
with steve williams
Hidden 19/Jul/88 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd O/S
Lone Rider ??/1986 AltLd
Robmwatt ??/1984 AltLd
with Gaz Morgan
leland stamper 07/Aug/82 AltLd O/S
with Mark V
Hidden ?/Jul/82 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/82 AltLd
Falko 05/Aug/80 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route - really enjoyable day out.

with Al W.
Rob Davies ?/Aug/80 Lead

Done in French free style - using fifi hook for rests on pegs but not aid slings. We started late to avoid crowds and got down before dark but missed last telepherique. Walked down through forest, head-torch failed and stumbled into Bar National at 3 a.m.

with Mike Papworth
Hidden 20/Jul/80 2nd
alpinist63 ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 -
Nigel Bond 23/Aug/78 Lead
with Martin Crosby
uphillnow ?/Jul/77 -

with spuzz Ithink

Steve Woollard 06/Aug/74 Lead
with Andrew Huch, Malcolm Parker
Bolt Phobia 06/Aug/74 2nd
with Andrew Heuch, Steve Woollard
Paul Clarke ??/1974 AltLd
with Al Deakin
Martin Bennett 21/Jul/72 -
with RA
Climbingspike ??/1972 -
jcw ?/Aug/63 -

We did as a five, two guides, in the most appalling conditions, dripping wet and bitterly cold, but determined to do something in this scheiss season. One of the foulest ascents I've done in the conditions but proud of it with only one year's climbing under my belt.

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Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 3
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set