UKC

200m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 195m. A firmly traditional route with some old-school climbing. Start at some broken ledges, below and left of a 10m corner.
Approach - From the Montenvers train, take the lower of the two paths (the one that doesn't go via 'Le Signal') heading towards the 'Plan de l'Aiguille'. Follow this for 45 minutes until it meets up again with the higher path at a signpost. (NOTE - this sign says that Montenvers is 1 hour 10 minutes away via both paths. The reality (for when you're descending) is that the higher path takes about that long but the lower path will have you back to the train in a little over 30 minutes).
From the signpost, continue towards the Plan de l'Aiguille for 300m until a vague path leads off left, directly towards the Aiguille de l'M, just before the main path descends slightly. The vague path climbs for 10 minutes and then reaches a boulderfield. Continue straight across this and then begin to look for the cairns which mark the way. Follow the path as best you can (not easily done) as it takes you onto and up the long scree slope below the peak. The vague path from here is rarely clear and at times it may feel easier just to plough on up the scree slope, picking the easiest looking line and heading straight for the foot of the route.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb the ledges and the corner and step right to a belay on the right.
2) 4c, 35m. Continue up broken slabby ground to a belay beneath a groove.
3) 5b, 30m. Climb the groove, which can be pretty slippery, and continue up to a belay 5m below a small roof.
4) 5c, 35m. Carry on up the groove to the roof, go around it on the left and then come back right to belay in a notch below some impressive slabs.
5) 4b, 30m. Go straight up the slabs, then right to a belay just below the ridge crest.
6) 4b, 35m. Step left and climb the excellent flake-filled chimney to the summit.
Descent - The route ends near the summit and (if you can be bothered to carry your boots and crampons up) it is nice to descend from here via the North-northeast Ridge descent, or by going to the Col de la BĂ»che. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
UIAA V with one move of V+/VI-, (the Piola guide has the crux pitch as French 5). Lower pitches are slow to dry.

J Couzy and M Proust 27.7.1952 27/Jul/1952

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.


ClimberDateStyle
steve_gibbs 20/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

When two grooves appear, stay right. The Rockfax guide is misleading.

with Max Meyer
Christine 20/Aug/17 2nd O/S

Harder then description 5c. Got of rout, rock was wet, cold, mosy, misty....

with Maximilian Meyer
nbryant 03/Aug/17 2nd O/S

Took some slight deviations but a great little route. Had the place to ourselves which was a surprise.

with Alex lungan
seanhendo123 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Good route, did in 6 pitches to the summit, l did 2,4 & 5 (2nd pitch ran 70m to pass a slow team) ......bit of loose rock on top pitches but a good day out

with Jonas
Hidden 19/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
jayray 03/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 30/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/15 2nd
Claire Molloy 06/Jul/15 2nd

Long day and brutal descent in 30 degree plus but lovely climbing. Want to come back and do north east ridge

with Mark Thomas
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
Hidden 14/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
reima 08/Aug/11 2nd dnf

Abbed off after first pitch when it started hailing, and the rope got stuck. Not the most best day.

with Niamh
Jack Loftus 28/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Petarghh 28/Jun/11 AltLd

Crappy route with a nice sounding description, Loose but not too hard... More scary !

liz j 11/Sep/10 -
with Matt Dickinson
inuklm 23/Aug/09 -
with Dave Gent
davidgent 17/Aug/09 -
with Kunal
LJKing 04/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Missed cable car walked down to Chamonix!

with Rob Marson
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Andy Clarke 31/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Excellent climbing, particularly going through the overhangs around half-way. Route finding not always obvious, as some old pegs lead up cul de sacs. Had to do some necky down climbing. Generally, the rule sems to be: if in doubt, stay right. Frantic run to make last 'phrique, not wanting to repeat our previous misadventures (see 26 & 29 July!). Led Ps 1,3,4/5,7.

with Rob
Bristoldave ?/Jul/09 AltLd

Led crux pitches

with Jon Hauser
Tobias at Home ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

pulled on a peg

Franco Cookson OLD 29/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Nicos 23/Jul/07 Lead O/S
dror ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
clams ??/2005 -
with Liam
1202alarm ?/Jun/04 -
mike.moss ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Alex Cowan
alpinismo.uk ?/Jul/03 AltLd
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd
Paul-Michael 17/Aug/01 2nd dnf

Paul lead up frunt of flake V+ 3 points of Aid, I seconded clean after Mark. Then it started rainning so we bailed.

with Mark McCaffrey, Paul Nurse
TobyA ?/Aug/01 AltLd O/S

Led the polished and slippery crux pitch. Nice route.

with Stuart Adams
Jim Walton 02/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
with Matthew Stammers
tompercy 07/Jul/95 AltLd
with Amos Preminger
Hidden 01/Aug/94 AltLd
bijou tram ??/1994 AltLd O/S
with Joan Flanagan
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1991 -
auld al ?/Jul/90 AltLd O/S

with john and tim

pingora ?/Aug/89 -
Hidden 22/Jul/89 AltLd
steve taylor ?/Aug/88 AltLd O/S

Better than Papillon - no-one else on the route.

with Dave Gilkes
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd O/S
Tony Kartawick ?/Aug/86 -
with Jan Kartawick
michael burrows 20/Jul/86 AltLd O/S

my first route in the alps

with steve williams
Hidden ??/1986 -
Richard Weller ??/1986 -

Approx date

with Richard White
Lone Rider ??/1986 AltLd
Guy ?/Aug/85 Lead O/S
with The old man
Hidden ?/Jul/85 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/1984 AltLd
with Gaz Morgan
uphillnow ??/1983 Lead

Date and partner? Didnt think much to it, others here are better

with Andy Bennett
Neil McA 09/Aug/82 AltLd

pleasant. damp and cloudy. 2.5 hours

with Steve Hartland
Martin Haworth ?/Aug/82 AltLd O/S
with Dave Snowden
Falko 01/Aug/81 AltLd O/S
with Alan Taylor, Colin Armstrong, Al W.
Hidden 20/Jul/80 2nd
alpinist63 ??/1980 -
Hidden 13/Jul/78 AltLd
Hidden 13/Jul/78 Lead
Andy Chubb ?/Jul/77 AltLd
with Saxon Ridley
Hidden ?/Aug/76 -
Derek Ryden 02/Aug/75 AltLd
Ken Taylor 17/Jul/75 AltLd
with Jonathan Lagoe
Dave Musgrove 01/Aug/73 AltLd

Only route in disastrous 3 weeks of bad weather!

with Alex Webster
Climbingspike ??/1972 -
Hidden ?/Aug/69 AltLd
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