Restricted Access
The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies from Flying Doctor / The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).
Rockfax Description
The lowest girdle is a long trip with a fair bit of vegetated ledge rambling early on, but improves as the miles roll by. Start as for Beeston Eliminate. Some pitches can be combined.
1) 4a, 20m. Climb the cleaned stripe to the second big tree as for West Wall Climb (p.380 ).
2) 4c, 30m. Follow the base of the steep wall rightwards (vegetated) until it is possible to climb down the upper part of P1 of The Thorn and belay where a ramp runs out right.
3) 5a, 16m. Follow the ramp rightwards to a small stance on the polished ramp of Central Wall.
4) 5a, 14m. Continue in the same line to a small stance in the groove of The Fly.
5) 5a, 18m. Swing right to access a ramp on The Webb then continue up and right to a fixed belay. © Rockfax
FA. Paul Nunn, T.Briggs 1969. Recorded at the time as Armadillium. 15/Jun/1969.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Beeston Tor
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Hen Cloud Eliminate
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Hen Cloud)