UKC Logbook - 'The Tum Tum Tree'

35m. Start as for Motombo climbing from the back of the cave to the sit down rest on the lip of the cave, (On the first ascent a cam was moved along the crack in the cave roof to protect the sitting/shuffling until a pull from the cave, can be made. Gear was placed above, then the runner in the cave extended to avoid rope drag). Stand up and make another move up, before reaching left and pulling onto the front face and into the crack of Magellan’s Wall. Follow the crack/fault line in its entirety, passing through Dreams and Screams until pulling around the arête on the left of the wall and into the final finishing groove of Centrefold. Taking a belay after the cave reduces the over all grade to E4 6a.

Nick Bullock and James McHaffie 08/Jul/2014.

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User	Date		Notes
Nick Bullock	2 Aug, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Contrary to what is written below, the climb was almost led on-sight, as a single pitch, by moving the cam in the cave along the parallel crack until at the lip (Not as tricky as it sounds, because you are almost sitting down while shuffling). When out of the cave, I leant back and extended it. The on-sight was fluffed when my foot slipped three-quarters of the way along the crack near Dreams and Screams. The first ascent was climbed second go, ground-up, in a single pitch. Sorry Steve, but it is possible ;-) I will say that my second, Caff, had a grade or two in hand, so I didn't care that I couldn't see him or communicate with him, and he didn't appear to be unduly concerned either! Addendum: After Steve has continued with his, it's better done as two pitches, I will continue with, it is not as the first ascent. A single pitch is easily doable with nouse, move the cam along in the cave, extend the runner at the end of the cave after you pull around. But each to their own, take a belay and have E4 6a with 1 point of aid. Horses for courses, it's a great route whatever, just not as good with aid. Yep, I fell off on the on-sight first ascent, it was nothing to do with the ropework, drag or the like, it was all to do with shoddy footwork, it doesn't prove anything Mr Long other than I need to be less sloppy with the feet ;-)	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Contrary to what is written below, the climb was almost led on-sight, as a single pitch, by moving the cam in the cave along the parallel crack until at the lip (Not as tricky as it sounds, because you are almost sitting down while shuffling). When out of the cave, I leant back and extended it. The on-sight was fluffed when my foot slipped three-quarters of the way along the crack near Dreams and Screams. The first ascent was climbed second go, ground-up, in a single pitch. Sorry Steve, but it is possible ;-) I will say that my second, Caff, had a grade or two in hand, so I didn't care that I couldn't see him or communicate with him, and he didn't appear to be unduly concerned either! Addendum: After Steve has continued with his, it's better done as two pitches, I will continue with, it is not as the first ascent. A single pitch is easily doable with nouse, move the cam along in the cave, extend the runner at the end of the cave after you pull around. But each to their own, take a belay and have E4 6a with 1 point of aid. Horses for courses, it's a great route whatever, just not as good with aid. Yep, I fell off on the on-sight first ascent, it was nothing to do with the ropework, drag or the like, it was all to do with shoddy footwork, it doesn't prove anything Mr Long other than I need to be less sloppy with the feet ;-)
Steve Long	29 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: On sight is on sight. I rest my case! Best split into 2 pitches.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: On sight is on sight. I rest my case! Best split into 2 pitches.