Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Schedule 1 birds are nesting on Sugar Mountain sector, very close to the approach/descent for all sectors of the crag. Sugar Mountain sector is restricted, and unfortunately other sectors will also need to be restricted unless alternative access via direct abseil/similar can be arranged as use of the normal approach will cause disturbance.
Rockfax Description
Move up past a thin break and pocket to the edge of the sandstone intrusion - hard. Easier but steeper climbing remains. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Reach to the horizontal and make potentially baffling moves to gain the good pocket above. Tiptoe left to a rest and then climb direct on a mixture of sandstone, limestone and calcite to a steep finish on excellent holds.
FA. Tom Rainbow 2014.
Ticklists
The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon 6's
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| VassYesMan | 4 Mar, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pulled off a pretty chunky loose block from the top of the sandstone feature on my way down. Don't think it should affect the grade but didn't really try the route again as it was the end of my session. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Pulled off a pretty chunky loose block from the top of the sandstone feature on my way down. Don't think it should affect the grade but didn't really try the route again as it was the end of my session. |
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| Intothevoid? | 27 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Goes slightly right of the arete at top, left is loose and crystally. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Goes slightly right of the arete at top, left is loose and crystally. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Churston Quarries
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Equipoise
Grade: 6c ***
(Berry Head Quarry)