Rockfax Description
An entertaining series of short pitches, the second being bold and the finale a rarity! Start on a high ledge below a crack that leads up to an acute right-trending corner.
1) 11m. Climb the crack and acute corner to a belay on a ledge.
2) 4b, 10m. A poorly-protected pitch. Follow a shallow crack, just to the left of an arete, to a black blob. Stand on the blob and make a precise step up onto the slab above, which quickly leads to a big ledge and belay.
3) 4a, 10m. Across the gully on the right is a crack. Climb the crack to a ledge and then another short, wide crack to a large ledge and belay on the right.
4) 4c, 10m. Traverse left to an undercut corner and make an awkward move up into a chimney above and slightly right. Squeeze up the chimney to finish. © Rockfax
West Country Climbs , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Cligga Head)