140m, 4 pitches. Start behind the large block at the base of the west end of the North Face of Magic Mountain. The route starts up a chimney filled with loose blocks. It is a bit of a a hiddne gem. Bring large gear up to #5 camalot.
1. Climb carfully up the chockstone chimney for 40 feet to a lrage ledge. Follow the wide crack up to another ledge. natural Belay, 25m
2. Climb the stembox chimney behind the ledge (not as bad as it looks) until it becomes too narrow then stem out onto the face before finishing up a fantastic hand crack. natiral anchor, 40m
3. Climb up the corner behind the belay for a short period before cutting out onto the face on the left and skirting the right side of the roof. Regain the crack and follow irup to the base of a corner. Climb the corner until near its top and belay in a pod.
4. The description of this pitch seems to vary but this way is sure to provide an adventure. Continue up the crack above the belay to a large ledge. Climb the small crack behinf the ledge for 10 feet to another ledge and then step right around the corner. A little ledge leads toward a large corner capped by a roof. Make delicate moves along the ledge with considerable rope drag. Enter the corner and climb it to a foot ledge. traverse boldly right and up. Finish up the crux crack to the top. EPIC pitch! 35m, 10b

Hebst, Hamilton, Kaufman, Allen, Woodruff Apr/1977

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
martinazando 31 Oct, 2014 AltLd With Sunny
with al99
With Sunny
with al99
al99 31 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S Had a bit of an EPic on the 4th pitch. Not sure we went the right way, perhaps the guideboook is wrong!
with Sunny Jamshedji, martinazando
Had a bit of an EPic on the 4th pitch. Not sure we went the right way, perhaps the guideboook is wrong!
with Sunny Jamshedji, martinazando
Voting
High 5.10c
Mid 5.10c
Low 5.10c
High 5.10b
Mid 5.10b
Low 5.10b
High 5.10a
Mid 5.10a
Low 5.10a
Votes cast 1