Rockfax Description
The narrow-looking gap between Lost Gandalf and Gollum has some decent climbing.
1) N5+, 40m. Follow cracks to the belay on Gollum,
2) N5+, 40m. Trend left up unlikely looking ground to a groove and then a hand-crack. Choose a finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
As mentioned on the 'update climb' page but not the actual page of the climb the routes Smeagol and Gollum are not labelled correctly.
Pitch 1 update. Smeagol starts from a small block up to the base of an obvious T shaped crack. The crack is layed back on the left but flaring on right. Above mid level the crack is too shallow to finger jam. The transition to the right side of the a top of the T crack is obviously very off balance and is a shallow crimp ( microcam ) or blind can placement at apex of vertical.

FA. Jonas Dahlstrup, Simon Svendsen 2008 15/Jun/2008.

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