UKC

65m, 4 pitches. Rockfall has altered this route.

A meandering climb, rather superseded by Amos Moses . Start as for Amos Moses at a right-slanting crack in the large subsidiary buttress, below the right-hand end of the Dress Circle.
1.) 15m, Climb the crack to a large grass ledge and pinnacle.
2.) 20m, Move right to the foot of a crack near the edge of the buttress. Ascend the crack, and grass ledges, and belay on the right.
3.) 27m, Descend a couple of metres to the right on grass, and climb to a small ledge up and right, clearly visible on the skyline below the overhangs. Step left and pull into a shallow groove between the overhangs. Climb the crack on the right to a bulge, move left and surmount the bulge, then climb diagonally to the right, to a belay in the crack.
4 .) 21m, Climb up easily to an open V-groove which leads to Eagle's Nest Ridge.

R Valentine, J Wilkinson 19/May/1973.

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Route of Interest
Mandrake

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Quayfoot Buttress)

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