UKC

185m, 6 pitches. Note: First ascensionists have adjusted the grade to be VII,8 A great climb taking a parallel winter line to Breakaway to join it for its final corner. Start 15m left of Breakaway/summer Pobble at a left-facing open corner with two perched blocks at its base. 1. 40m Climb the corner and continue up blocky ground to belay in the corner line. 2. 20m Climb to a cave below the obvious triangular roof. Go up, swing out left, and climb the sensational overhanging crack (bold) to a large ledge. Move 2m right to below a corner. 3. 40m Climb the delicate wall up and right to the obvious crack in a large block. Surmount this, move right, and climb the poorly protected tenuous groove to a snowfield. Belay at the top right-hand corner of the snowfield. 4. 30m Climb the easy snowy gangway up and right round the crest. Climb the short corner and continue right to beneath the obvious final corner of Breakaway. 5. 15m An inch by inch struggle up the corner. Belay on a pedestal. 6. 40m Step down left from the pedestal and turn the arete to easy ground, and continue direct to belay on the summit.

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The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland

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