UKC

Restricted Access

There have been occasional problems with locals claiming ownership.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The seasonal restriction applies to the whole quarry for nesting peregrines.

Rockfax Description
The right-hand line of bolts after starting up Eczema is less sustained but has its crux near the top. Don't stray right a the top. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mattress 13 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First bolt is only finger right - someone please take a spanner.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First bolt is only finger right - someone please take a spanner.
BARNEYHIGHROPES 25 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The shared tree belay (steel cable) is now firmly pinched between the tree and the rock edge behind it stopping me from properly assessing it\'s condition. To pull out feels fine but there\'s no way to really find out. Please use caution.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The shared tree belay (steel cable) is now firmly pinched between the tree and the rock edge behind it stopping me from properly assessing it's condition. To pull out feels fine but there's no way to really find out. Please use caution.
Oogachooga 20 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Just noticed this whole crag has restrictions due to the birds of prey. Which puzzled me to be honest. Feedback from today would show that the birds are happy as usual and very much made it their home long term, bits of pigeon scattered down the centre of the main crag and random kill sites throughout the whole quarry. They are absolutely unfazed by the frquent visits from the local kids. A couple of kids were having a joint up top while I was there, right where the birds normally eat. So it does lead me to offer the arguement that the restrictions on climbers being pointless? It would certainly be a cleaner place if every climber took a little rubbish with them, making it a better environment for everyone.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just noticed this whole crag has restrictions due to the birds of prey. Which puzzled me to be honest. Feedback from today would show that the birds are happy as usual and very much made it their home long term, bits of pigeon scattered down the centre of the main crag and random kill sites throughout the whole quarry. They are absolutely unfazed by the frquent visits from the local kids. A couple of kids were having a joint up top while I was there, right where the birds normally eat. So it does lead me to offer the arguement that the restrictions on climbers being pointless? It would certainly be a cleaner place if every climber took a little rubbish with them, making it a better environment for everyone.
Labergorce 17 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route, great climbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely route, great climbing

Logged Ascents

148 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Shakemantle Quarry (Ruspidge Slab Quarry)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 5 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 16
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Victorian Falls

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Nailbridge)

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