UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

10m. On the Upper Lift, some 50m left from the top of the ascent path, is a pair of bolted lines with a shared lower off. This is the left-hand line. N.B. the belay position is necessarily straight out from the foot of the climb, so be aware of the possibility of falling onto the rope.

J Jones Apr/2014.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K

Feedback

User Date Notes
springfall2008 14 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: After the first clip (which is easy to get to than it looks) use the hand hold below the clip (you need a long draw to avoid blocking the hold) and two feet on small chips on the face of the pillar to reach up with your left hand to a diagonal wedge. Then you can reach the good holds above. Hard until you figure out the move
Show beta
βeta: After the first clip (which is easy to get to than it looks) use the hand hold below the clip (you need a long draw to avoid blocking the hold) and two feet on small chips on the face of the pillar to reach up with your left hand to a diagonal wedge. Then you can reach the good holds above. Hard until you figure out the move

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

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High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
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