Restricted Access
Some of the rock here is very loose and pegs may be missing or in very poor condition. The top is also very overgrown at present making it very difficult to get to the abseil points.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Variable restriction sometimes apply - see on-site signing. There is usually a restriction from 1st March - 1st August affecting the whole crag, assume thsi is in place unless signage says differently...
45m, 3 pitches.
A route with a lot of variety but the odd brittle hold. Start on the boulder beach, about 8m left of a rock pillar, which is about 30m left of the rock platform.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb an open corner/flake crack rightwards to reach the first break and traverse right to a stance.
2) 5b, 12m. Climb the twin pocketed cracks above to another big ledge.
3) 5c, 15m. Move up towards the prominent crack in the smooth black wall and trend up and rightwards to the base of a steep corner. Climb this, exiting right, to finish via the obvious groove.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb an open corner/flake crack rightwards to reach the first break and traverse right to a stance.
2) 5b, 12m. Climb the twin pocketed cracks above to another big ledge.
3) 5c, 15m. Move up towards the prominent crack in the smooth black wall and trend up and rightwards to the base of a steep corner. Climb this, exiting right, to finish via the obvious groove.
FA. R.Conway, C.Jackson 03/May/1980.
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Guidebooks for Abermawr Area
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Route of Interest
Ghost Ship
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Bosherston Head)