UKC

Restricted Access

Some of the rock here is very loose and pegs may be missing or in very poor condition. The top is also very overgrown at present making it very difficult to get to the abseil points.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Variable restriction sometimes apply - see on-site signing. There is usually a restriction from 1st March - 1st August affecting the whole crag, assume thsi is in place unless signage says differently...

39m. An impressive lower section on superb rock is marred by a poor finish. A hanging rope would be excusable. The route takes the grey arête overlooking the cutaway to its left. Climb directly up the cutaway for 12m and step right to a sloping ledge on the arête. Climb the ever steepening arête on superb pockets, with a swing left onto its very edge to reach a crystalline edge around the arête to assist a hard section. Continue up bulging rock to a break and follow an easy but unprotected grey groove above to reach unstable vegetated ledges. Climb up over these and exit up a more solid crack and groove behind a huge jammed block.

FA. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 30/Jul/1995.

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Guidebooks for Abermawr Area

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Route of Interest
Sieg Heil!

Grade: E5 6a ***
(The Cauldron)

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