900m, 12 pitches.
Approach: 1.30hr via the Temple Basin Ski Field.
The climb largely follows the ridge line of the central buttress on Mt Temple.
A pitch by pitch descriptions is not necessary due to the easy terrain and multiple variations on many of the pitches. Following the line of best rock is the best choice.
The climb is typically done in 8 pitches with two of these pitches being link pitches without any climbing.
Descent is down towards the ski field via a series of loose scree gullys.
Pitch 1 - Climb up the central part of the wall on the first pinnacle of rock, very poorly protected to a poor two spike belay. Pitch 2 - Head upwards to the right, following a scree ramp after the rock section, bringing you to the base of the main first pinnacle. Pitch 3 - Climb up the groove in a steep series of moves that will lead you to a good bridging position above, around the HVS mark. Pitch 4 - Move of the main spike of the belay with little gear to the base of a chimney, good gear, move up this with difficulty until a step left can be made follow a groove above with little gear until under a roof and belay. Pitch 5 - Continue up the groove to a small col in the flank of the pinnacle. Make a very steep series of moves (solid 5a climbing) for ten metres before reaching easier ground above, the gear is good if you can hang on! Pitch 6 - Move of the spike belay with little gear to make wild moves to the top of the first pinnacle, (tat in place) Pitch 7 - Abseil or down climb/pitch to the col below, if in doubt now is the last time to easily bail! Pitch 8 - Make exposed moves across the knife edge and head right on very loose rock to gain a belay in the niche. Pitch 9 - Move up a chimney with good holds and gear, after this the ground is very rotten with no gear and avoid the groove with poised death blocks as much as you can, before moving right out onto the face of the second pinnacle. Pitch 10 - Move around the top of the second pinnacle and traverse across another knife edge before belaying under the final tower. Pitch 11 - Move up into the steep groove gear, commit to a hard step right until under the main overhang, be warned! This comprises of two large fridge sized blocks cantilevered against each other, these creak alarmingly, move up carefully holds on the right to avoid block pulling as much as possible before heading up the wall above breathing a sigh of relief! Solid E1 5a climbing! Pitch 12 - Easy rock if not loose to the summit.
The climb largely follows the ridge line of the central buttress on Mt Temple.
A pitch by pitch descriptions is not necessary due to the easy terrain and multiple variations on many of the pitches. Following the line of best rock is the best choice.
The climb is typically done in 8 pitches with two of these pitches being link pitches without any climbing.
Descent is down towards the ski field via a series of loose scree gullys.
Pitch 1 - Climb up the central part of the wall on the first pinnacle of rock, very poorly protected to a poor two spike belay. Pitch 2 - Head upwards to the right, following a scree ramp after the rock section, bringing you to the base of the main first pinnacle. Pitch 3 - Climb up the groove in a steep series of moves that will lead you to a good bridging position above, around the HVS mark. Pitch 4 - Move of the main spike of the belay with little gear to the base of a chimney, good gear, move up this with difficulty until a step left can be made follow a groove above with little gear until under a roof and belay. Pitch 5 - Continue up the groove to a small col in the flank of the pinnacle. Make a very steep series of moves (solid 5a climbing) for ten metres before reaching easier ground above, the gear is good if you can hang on! Pitch 6 - Move of the spike belay with little gear to make wild moves to the top of the first pinnacle, (tat in place) Pitch 7 - Abseil or down climb/pitch to the col below, if in doubt now is the last time to easily bail! Pitch 8 - Make exposed moves across the knife edge and head right on very loose rock to gain a belay in the niche. Pitch 9 - Move up a chimney with good holds and gear, after this the ground is very rotten with no gear and avoid the groove with poised death blocks as much as you can, before moving right out onto the face of the second pinnacle. Pitch 10 - Move around the top of the second pinnacle and traverse across another knife edge before belaying under the final tower. Pitch 11 - Move up into the steep groove gear, commit to a hard step right until under the main overhang, be warned! This comprises of two large fridge sized blocks cantilevered against each other, these creak alarmingly, move up carefully holds on the right to avoid block pulling as much as possible before heading up the wall above breathing a sigh of relief! Solid E1 5a climbing! Pitch 12 - Easy rock if not loose to the summit.
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