180m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
145m. Another excellent route. You'll be glad of a small rack on some of the pitches so take a few cams and wires. The route starts 40m right of Modern Times, about 2m right of a broken corner. In late season it is necessary to scramble 20m to reach the first belay. There are no bolts on this section and this start only appeared because the previously permanent snowfield beneath the route is now only present until mid-summer.
Approach - From the top of the Index chairlift, head directly up towards the route following a path on a moraine ridge.
1) 5a, 40m. Climb the light-coloured slab and the steeper pillar above. The crux move is about 10m up the pitch, and there's an intermediate belay at 20m if you want to keep a closer eye on your second.
2) 4a, 15m. Drift left across easier ground to a belay on a black section of rock.
3) 4c, 30m. Climb the black pillar straight above the belay.
4) 4c, 30m. Cross the gully just to the right of the belay and then climb up to the ledge system below the summit tower. Walk easily rightwards to a belay which is shared with Modern Times.
5) 5a, 30m. Go to the far side of a small gully (snow filled in early summer, as in this photo) and climb the slab above.
Descent - Scramble up from the final belays on the routes to reach the summit of the buttress. From here walk/scramble down a path to reach the gully which separates this buttress from the Index, and descend this easily to a 28m abseil. At the foot of the abseil (which can be downclimbed at 3c) walk directly back to the chairlift. © Rockfax

Merlin 30/Aug AltLd O/S

Rockfax guidebook is out to lunch with regards pitch descriptions. Final pitch has been revolted on the wall to the left of the gully. First pitch is the crux at 5b.

with Dave Tait, Phil Chalkley
Chubbs 30/Aug AltLd
Bristol_Quornstar 18/Aug AltLd O/S
Green_t 18/Aug AltLd O/S
wjcdean 31/Jul AltLd O/S

Meh. Top pitch is pretty good. Led pitches 1, 3, 5 and 6.

with Trevers
Trevers 31/Jul AltLd O/S

Good last pitch, route finding a bit all over the place

with Will
EllieWoods 23/Jul AltLd O/S
petecallaghan 23/Jul AltLd O/S
Robbie Blease 18/Jul AltLd
with Steve
steve_gibbs 18/Jul AltLd O/S
Keith Lambley 07/Jul AltLd
with Kate R
James.houghton 27/Jun AltLd O/S

Solod the bottom 4c pitch as there is very little snow left. Led 1,3,5 then finished up Modern times for the last pitch. Climbed and descended Mani Puliti and Nez Rouge in 4:30.

mattdennies 27/Jun AltLd O/S

Climbed after doing Mani Puliti. First pitch felt pretty technical. Nice climbing on good holds most the way. Didn't have a topo so ended up climbing last pitch of modern times which was absolutely fantastic.

rosso 24/Jun AltLd O/S
with Faye
faye 24/Jun AltLd
DaveThexton 19/Jun AltLd O/S
with Tim
murray ?/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Will
themattyshep 23/Jun/16 Lead O/S

did the bottom 3 pitches and finished up Mani Puliti

Rob_Morris1996 23/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Much of bottom pitch under snow, so scrambled up to belay and started from there, where Shep then dropped the map, which shot off down the snow slope. A quick South African ab and 20mins later we were ready to climb. Climbed the first three pitches and then moved over to Mani Puliti, getting the best pitches of both climbs!

davkeo 25/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
cearbhalld 25/Aug/15 AltLd

Scrappy & easy.

Hidden 14/Aug/15 AltLd
pankoman ?/Aug/15 -
Hidden 31/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
PerMarePerTerram 28/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
PerMarePerTerram 28/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/15 Solo O/S
clairemathews 15/Jul/15 AltLd
with Tony Walentowicz, Ian Pegg, Richard Apthorp
Hidden 15/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
ipegg 15/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 07/Jul/15 AltLd
Chuck 03/Jul/15 Lead
eddiem1 22/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Andrew will wilson ??/2015 Lead O/S

First pitch 5b, cuts left up the corner instead of following line of bolts up the right arĂȘte , top pitch 5a, awesome pitch

Callum Smith 27/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Ended up mixing up with modern times, all bolted so its much of a muchness. Good morning stroll with nice views and sheltered.

Hidden 12/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S
jcw ??/2014 -
professorcobra 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
zcsharp 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

In B3s in the rain, very good day out.

with Camilla
Ashley Hold ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd O/S
Mountain Llama 06/Sep/11 AltLd
with Paul S
marcushorgan 08/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Hertha Taverner Wood
Hidden 16/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
tskelhon ??/2010 Lead O/S

L'index SE rigde was chocca, so found a route up the face en directe!

with Annette
Hidden 09/Aug/08 AltLd
philboy 09/Aug/08 AltLd
with matt g
Watty 19/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with A.Watt
Alexander123 19/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Moved together on easy middle pitches. Realy nice first and last pitches

Hidden 02/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden 01/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/07 AltLd
Cardi 04/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Did 4 or 5 pitches. Had a bit of an epic abseiling back down and missed telepherique.

with Sunil
Hidden 01/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Sankey 18/Aug/05 AltLd
with Andy E
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
agagsgrot ?/Aug/03 2nd

Climbed with my kids who were 12 and 10 at the time.

with Thomas and Becky, Chris
chrishedgehog 11/Aug/01 AltLd O/S
with Dan Bailey, Clare Wilkie
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