UKC

200m, 5 pitches. Right of Banshee is another easy diagonal fault which goes the full height of the cliff. This takes a line crossing it. Start in a bay below and right of the fault. The right side of the bay is formed by a big smooth wall, possibly ice streaked, and the top is a steep groove. Climb the next groove left on ice, then traverse left on to turfy ground. Zigzag up this to below a narrow turfy groove (there is a bigger but harder groove to the right) – 40m. Climb the groove to reach the bigger groove and follow it to the diagonal fault (45m). Go up this until possible to head up left into a bay (50m). There are two steep faults out of the top of the bay but head rightwards to a narrow chimney on the right crest of the bay (25m). Climb the chimney, the trend right before finishing straight up (40m).

Andy Nisbet, Steve Perry. 27/Feb/2015.

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Route of Interest
No.6 Gully

Grade: IV 4 ***
(Aonach Dubh)

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