UKC

300m, 7 pitches. Note: this route is actually on Cactus Flower Tower, a sub-peak of Mt Wilson, but this feature isn't currently in the database.

The Warrior follows a striking right-facing corner up the centre of the Cactus Flower Tower for 210 metres or so and then leaves the corner for about 90 metres of face climbing to the top of the tower. The style of climbing (more reminiscent of climbing in Yosemite Valley than Red Rock) combined with a strenuous approach make for a memorable day of climbing.

Approach. Cactus Flower Tower is an obvious attractive sub-peak to the right of Mt Wilson. It can be approached via the Oak Creek Canyon trailhead accessed from the loop road or via the Oak Creek trail system accessed by parking at the pullout on Hwy 159 (1.5 miles past the loop road exit, identified by a brown no camping sign). Though slightly longer, the latter is perhaps the better choice. From this trailhead follow the main trail past Mt Wilson on the left and pass the Wilson Pimple, keeping it on your left. Your objective is in view the whole time and as you approach it you should be able to identify a steep gully system which leads to the base. This steep gully is identified by a broad, less steep, gully filled with a variety of vegetation . A band of pink rock on the right hand side of this lower gully helps to identify it. The best way to negotiate this gully is ill-defined, but a faint system of trails lead from the main trail up the left-hand side of this gully allow you to gain most of the necessary elevation whilst avoiding the worst of the vegetation. Eventually you will be forced into and across the gully to the start of the steeper gully. Many parties pick a path up the gully itself, though opportunities for enjoyment are limited here.

Once at the base of the steeper gully, pick the line of least resistance up it and keep an eye out for cairns which mark most of the route finding difficulties. You will almost certainly encounter fifth class moves, but nothing too difficult. The initial 30m of the gully are the steepest and are followed by less steep scrambling which eventually deposits you at the base of a mossy slab. Scramble up this for about 15m to the base of the route. If all goes well, you can be at the base of the route in something under two hours though it is not uncommon for things to not go well so budgeting a longer time to approach would be prudent.

Note. The steepest parts of this gully can be negotiated by single rope abseils on descent. It pays to keep an eye out for abseil anchors on the way up. The first anchor encountered on the descent is a very good two-bolt anchor on a mossy boulder to the left of the route's start. This anchor can be seen on the last abseil of the route itself. The other abseil anchors are less good and supplementing them with rope/cord may be wise.

Pitch 1. 5.9. The route starts in the obvious chimney to the right of the main corner. A long pitch of sustained, mostly squeeze chimney leads to a bolted anchor on a small ledge outside the chimney as it pinches down. Gear is fairly sparse on this pitch but the climbing is mostly secure. A #5 and #6 BD camalot (or equivalent) would not go unused. 55m.

Pitch 2. 5.10b. The chimney system now becomes a corner. Climb this, initially, by stemming (crux) and then by a varied hand crack. This leads to the main corner system. Chimney up this for about 10m and make a gear belay on a ledge. Lots of options for gear here, probably wise to avoid using your hand/big hand pieces in this belay. Note, that out on the face, just above this belay, is a two bolt anchor that is used for descending the route. 35m.

Pitch 3. 5.10+. The main corner system looms above you in the form of flared chimney with a hand/fist crack in the back. Ascend this until it's possible to traverse out right to a two-bolt anchor on the face. While not the technical crux of the route, this pitch is perhaps the most sustained. 35m.

Pitch 4. 5.10-. Head back in to the corner and layback up it to a small roof. Traverse around the roof and continue into a large cave. If you're lucky, whatever inhabits this cave will be absent and you can tiptoe up the guano covered rock and out of the cave. It is also possible to chimney up the right-hand side of the cave. A more difficult option which might be preferable if the cave is occupied. Either way, a short off-width corner leads to another two-bolt anchor. 50m.

Pitch 5. 5.11a. Continue up the corner via more lay-backing and jamming soon reaching a short crux section where the crack becomes intermittent. Negotiate this and a further section of the corner using a combination of the thinning crack and face holds where available. Eventually the corner crack closes off for good and you're forced out on to the face. A bolt on the face, further away than you'd like, gives you something to aim for. Climb to it trying not to hasten the exfoliation of the face (5.8R). More face climbing, and two more bolts lead rightwards to a roof. Climb through the roof above the last of the bolts and belay at a two-bolt anchor just above. 50m.

Pitch 6. 5.8+R. A long pitch of moderate face climbing in a similar vein to what you've just done leads eventually to a two-bolt anchor. You may come across a bolt or two on the way, but this is a sparsely protected pitch. In general, head straight up. 45m.

Pitch 7. 5.6R? More of the same, at a slightly easier grade leads to the final two-bolt anchor. From here you can descend by abseiling the route with two ropes. Alternatively, you can scramble to the top of the tower and descend into Oak Creek Canyon via scrambling and a few abseils. 45m.

Retreat with two ropes is possible from the belays of all pitches except the second.

Rob and Pat Dezonia.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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High 5.11b
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Route of Interest
Excellent Adventure

Grade: 5.11a ***
( Pine Creek Canyon)

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