60m, 2 pitches.
An exciting and exposed climb up the right hand overhanging and undercut arete of the emperor. Climb the first pitch of Dark Angel, and continue for approximately 4m to belay on small stance underneath the first of two overhangs on the arete to the right.
Start - In the corner, level with the lower overhang. Make several hard moves diagonally leftwards across the wall just above the overhangs, to gain a vertical crack in the centre of the wall. Climb the crack to a horizontal break where another hard move is encountered to get established in the crack above. Continue on up the crack until it is possible to reach the edge of the arete just below the overhanging section. Step left for a good rest. Climb the overhanging arete on huge holds to get another rest below the nose. Ascend past the nose on the right hand side, making a hard move to get established on the face. Reach back left to the arete and climb this more easily to the top. Good protection, though camming devices are not recommended too close to the edge of the arete.
Start - In the corner, level with the lower overhang. Make several hard moves diagonally leftwards across the wall just above the overhangs, to gain a vertical crack in the centre of the wall. Climb the crack to a horizontal break where another hard move is encountered to get established in the crack above. Continue on up the crack until it is possible to reach the edge of the arete just below the overhanging section. Step left for a good rest. Climb the overhanging arete on huge holds to get another rest below the nose. Ascend past the nose on the right hand side, making a hard move to get established on the face. Reach back left to the arete and climb this more easily to the top. Good protection, though camming devices are not recommended too close to the edge of the arete.
S Gallwey, J Bergin. Jul/1991.
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