Rockfax Description
The crack in the face is hard if tackled direct (5c), but can be passed on the left using a mantle. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

jon_gill1 09/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with rosie hawker, john ripley
ripper 09/Oct/16 2nd

Led this previously, Rosie's turn this time and she cruised up in style

with jon_gill1, Rosie
Wendy Watthews 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

As ever misled as to the nature of a route by Joe, probably harder (for the short at least) than the e1 below. A long and hard move from the initial crack to pockets above, easier to finish.

with Little Gorman
JoeCoxson 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Evaluated all the options at the start, only to realise I was right first time; it's all about the big reach into watery pockets. Fun.

with Lorna Johnston
soph 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Frances Taylor
soph 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Frances Taylor
ClimbingAlex 26/Aug/16 Lead G/U

Hard start, had to rest on a nut. Got lowered down and got it clean. Went left & mini mantel'd. First HVS 5a :)

with Matt
Matt Magecha 26/Aug/16 2nd
with Alex
neal 19/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Chris S
saffy 23/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 22/Jun/16 2nd
kierankeavy 22/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Went directly up the crack, good fun route!

with Matt Lawrence
Hidden 05/Jun/16 Solo
nodwas 02/Jun/16 AltLd
Martin Bagshaw 24/May/16 Lead O/S
with Tom Hudson
Phil Crudge 15/May/16 2nd
with Jamie Holding
alexm198 14/May/16 Lead O/S

Went direct up the crack - seemed logical. Couple of stiff moves on thin hands but didn't feel like 5c.

Hidden 14/May/16 Lead
ecromwell 14/May/16 2nd

Lovely little crack, quite exposed

Fiona Hughes 14/May/16 2nd dog
with SP
davebrox ??/2016 -
Jake Young 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Roger K
RKirke 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Tom Phillips 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with leo
Leofallon 27/Sep/15 Lead
Hidden 31/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Louis Hume 31/Aug/15 Lead
Jenny Hall 31/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Louis
martinlevya82 16/Aug/15 2nd dog
Helen Boothman 16/Aug/15 Lead G/U
with Martin A
SAF 08/Aug/15 2nd RP
with Phil
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Jenny Hall 31/Jul/15 2nd
with tim plaice, Louis
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Ian Jones 23/Jul/15 2nd O/S

I attempted to lead and tried to take the literal line. It is essential to go out left with a technical mantel.

with Dan Moore (DCD)
Hidden 23/Jul/15 Lead
wi11 18/Jul/15 AltLd rpt
with Louisa Reynolds
Hidden 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
pie_eater_pete 30/Jun/15 AltLd
odari 21/Jun/15 -
jezb1 09/Jun/15 2nd
kyaizawa 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Emma Reynolds 09/Jun/15 2nd RP

Fell out of the lower part of the crack to the ground. Started again and thought the moves carefully.

SGD 07/Jun/15 2nd

Hard start. lovely little route.

andycash 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with chris day
AndrewP 15/May/15 Lead O/S

Had to leave rucksack on a ledge and sack haul after - balancey moves low down.

Ernests Cunculis 15/May/15 AltLd
with Andrew Peterson
Avinash Aujayeb ?/May/15 -
JamesWilliams 21/Apr/15 Lead O/S

good climbing up the crack and pockets. nice little route

with Dan Q
Ewan Russell 17/Apr/15 Solo O/S
with Myself!
kelly_426 ??/2015 2nd
with Tom Nichols, Luke Dudill
JohnMetcalfe 21/Sep/14 2nd

very hard move off the ledge and for the first few metres up the groove

with Andy Wilson
Mike_Hayes 14/Sep/14 2nd
Carl Watkins 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with sam
wi11 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Tom G, Tamsin
Hidden 28/Jul/14 2nd
Andrew will wilson 27/Jul/14 Lead

Tough start. Easy after

Rob Rocket 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 21/Jul/14 AltLd
michael burrows 22/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Phil Creed
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Patu 22/Jun/14 Lead RP

useful to know that the crux is at the very beginning, then eases out significantly.

with Nicolas
ardzeiem 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Finished off a cracking day in the sun

with Patrick, Nic
Jen Mason 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S

A brilliant lead by Loic. I think he was motivated by the obviously very good (and possibly famous?) older gentleman climber who was soloing adjacent routes!

with Loic
chris smith 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Malcolm watson
K Mckay 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S


with Dan Slome, Ed Poulter
foostu4 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
adamre12 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Short and neat. Easy route, more like VS. Good gear, good moves. And it's not polished!

BTphonehome 13/Jun/14 Lead RP

Good route. Seems to be a few different ways to go at the start of this. Fell onto the first bit of gear about a year ago but seemed relatively straightforward today.

with Tony
tmawer 13/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Bram
Pete_Frost 06/Jun/14 2nd

The direct start is really reachy and felt like 5c to me on a top rope. Moving slightly left at the start is much more in keeping with other 5a pitches in this area.

with Climbing Joe from Anglesey
Hidden 30/May/14 Lead
luke glaister 16/May/14 Lead O/S

Awesome pitch. Made light work of it. Great gear and great finish. .

casey johns 16/May/14 2nd O/S

Great lead

Jonathan Richardson 18/Apr/14 Lead
with Russ
GPN 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Annette
net 15/Apr/14 2nd
with George
steven_daniels99 14/Apr/14 2nd

2nd with head torch

Si ??/2014 -
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
waynekinrade ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 2nd
Hidden 29/Sep/13 2nd
Glyn Davidson 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Dan
m675bowsl 27/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
sonic46 27/Aug/13 Lead
Mattzx6r 27/Aug/13 2nd RP

Fell off low down trying to get my Stbd hoof in to the gaping hole in the crack. Good moves on good nuts, and that's before getting to the threads.

with Sonia
Andy_B39 23/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
with Sam Tolhurst
Celt Ll-J 21/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 19/Aug/13 AltLd
Zoomer 27/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Hard start, 2 falls, ran away!!!! Will be back for the big dyno/slap...grrr!

joe.91 27/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Olli-C 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Really cool route. Pockets and treads are brilliant.

Roget 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with jim
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead
rd20 13/Jul/13 Lead
with Hilary CC
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/13 2nd O/S
joscott 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Dan Longster
Dave Richards 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Started left of the crack on small holds and trended rightwards into the crack as wasn't too sure how the start went and the party in front took this line. Hard slab climbing.

with sjbrook
sjbrook 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
BTphonehome 31/May/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
ipegg 06/May/13 -

5b slab climbing

Hidden 06/May/13 TR O/S
Bertbee 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S

First HVS lead. So resisted contributing to the adj grade! It's harder than I was expecting... The crux appeared early on above crap gear, making the ledge below look unwelcoming. Finally stuffed a cam in somewhere to the right of the 'crack' and dynoed - phew! The climbing eases up a little above. Great climb!

with Ben
Lloyders 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Pete
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Marq 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Part 3 of our Cwm Idwal integrale

Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
robgixer ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead
bennys89 ?/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 30/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/May/12 2nd
lcullum7 29/May/12 Lead RP

Fluffed the first move the first time, got it 2nd attempt

SarahA 29/May/12 2nd
Big Lee 27/May/12 Lead dnf

Kept falling off the start so eventually gave up. Will need to try this again sometime.

MikeLell 27/May/12 2nd
with Big Lee
Hidden 26/May/12 2nd
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
rich_hw 26/May/12 Lead O/S
MartinWilliams87 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet 25/May/12 2nd
with llanberis Brian
Tom Livingstone 17/May/12 2nd β
ojgrant 17/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
will_benfold 12/May/12 Lead O/S
matt1024 12/May/12 2nd
sgl 25/Mar/12 AltLd
with Bart
tebs 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Sam
Alex Munnery 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Emily Bridger, Toby Farnworth
Dafydd Llywelyn 23/Mar/12 2nd rpt
Ollie B 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Well good fun. Jumping for a hold on a HVS isnt common...thank god.

with C.Radford
Dafydd Llywelyn 12/Nov/11 Lead
with Sam Houlker
Hidden 30/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Phil_Hall_97 30/Sep/11 2nd
with Alice Du Preeze, Dave Evans
harold walmsley 28/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Paul Evans
Hidden 27/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Sep/11 2nd
Tom Hecht 25/Aug/11 2nd β
with Josh Marshall
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead
Chriswallis2 30/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Jenny
CRiddiford 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

really nice route and very safe, lovely end to the day

with Jonny, Libby
Hidden 30/Jul/11 2nd
JRae 30/Jul/11 2nd
martrin 25/Jul/11 Lead

5B in the selected guide book, ground work

with Colin Smith
kitkat78 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with SteveM
Graeme Hammond 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

really nice, thanks to the guy who recommended this, well worth a couple of stars

with Becky E
SteveM 02/Jul/11 Lead
with Kat
Jenny Clarke ?/Jul/11 2nd
Edward Nagui ?/Jul/11 -
Hidden 30/Jun/11 2nd dog
Lawrie Brand 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Laing
Marti999 24/Jun/11 2nd O/S
climbinmunkey 04/Jun/11 Lead dog

Slipped off the lower crux then lowered and completed clean. Brilliant climb.

with Helen
Bennykr 02/Jun/11 2nd O/S


with Noodles
Noodles 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Sweet route on awesome rock, shame its not longer!! Got my dino out at the start! Haha

Hidden 01/May/11 Lead O/S
cmsg 01/May/11 2nd dog

Sat to remove an awkward nut. Irritating.

MBarraclough 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
jwpil 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S

A stunning pitch of climbing!

with Ben
benscarter 27/Apr/11 2nd β

excellent first move involving a layback to find the jug

with Jack
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd
psychomansam 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S


Hidden 20/Apr/11 2nd O/S
mynyddresident 18/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with callum next door
chrisallan 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
sambosanquet101 10/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd
will moy 22/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 -
ollieben ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
bsmedz ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
BennoC 16/Oct/10 2nd

Hard start

with Brian
thetradlad 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
mynyddresident 26/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Convenient using Tom and Als gear they'd left in at my request.

with geraint
jcook1980 03/Aug/10 2nd
Homes 02/Aug/10 2nd
with Dan W, Jonny C
Hidden 04/Jul/10 Lead rpt
MarekM ?/Jul/10 Lead
Owain Llewelyn 29/Jun/10 Lead
with Steve
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
becksta500 26/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Alex Smith
asmith37 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
ruaidh 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Part 3 of Chris and Rory's grand day out. Nice pitch. Bottom move is sequential but well protected. New guide gives it 5b.

Chris Sansum 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/10 Lead
Chriswallis2 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
Alistair Corbett 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with john corbett
Hidden 17/Jun/10 2nd O/S
d_meacher 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
wilchivs 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Jess patel 16/Jun/10 2nd
liamoloughlin 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Peter Holder 03/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
kieranlivett 03/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with james.peter
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/10 AltLd
farmus21 25/May/10 2nd

Smashing. Also lead a line above not in guide: about HVS- on pocketed face with thin crack.

with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 25/May/10 Lead O/S
with james G
willson 23/May/10 Lead
with ben
ollieben 15/May/10 2nd

really hard start with a heavy rucksac on

with harry henson
hazza 11/May/10 Lead
dan ely 06/May/10 Lead O/S
with jon
Derek Ryden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
with Glynne Andrew
robin_hackney 30/Apr/10 Lead O/S
shaun walby 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S

loverly pitch slight fiddle with gear small wires and poss rock 3 if you can reach high enough

with stuart Holmes
climbing_rocks1983 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Alan, Kieran
Hidden 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Aaron Lines ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Ward
Hidden ??/2010 -
bwestwood ??/2010 Lead O/S
danny33 ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/09 2nd O/S
SGD 08/Aug/09 Lead
with Tom WMC
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/09 Lead O/S
MontyH 14/Jun/09 2nd
with Brian
brian watson 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
vanderz 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Steve Fletcher
Hidden 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 21/Sep/08 2nd dog
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Twisty 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Excellent- one of the best routes done in Wales- bomber thread runners

with Rayan & Jools
Hidden 30/Aug/08 2nd
gb83 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S

great little pitch. very nice

with masa
masa-alpin 15/Aug/08 Lead O/S


OffshoreAndy 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Jade
SamStokes 24/Jul/08 Lead O/S
chris sm 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
hervenuttall 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with xav
Conan 31/May/08 2nd O/S
with Dave Carr
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
jelaby 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Nick Shuttleworth
Richard Hession 17/May/08 Lead O/S

Cool route.

with Esther
mjeffery 16/May/08 2nd rpt
Rob Davies 15/May/08 Lead
with Lars (BMC)
Hidden 13/May/08 Lead
HughM ?/May/08 2nd O/S
with notgnarly
SGD ?/May/08 Lead
with Tom Relf
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Bill Lawrence ??/2008 2nd
sebrider ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Dan Walker
peter myers ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Liam Flemming, Tom Sylvester
tumbling wizard ??/2008 -
tumbling wizard ??/2008 -
Hawkscry ??/2008 -
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead
Julia Chatterton 28/Aug/07 2nd

Amazing route

with Will
Hidden 07/Jun/07 Lead O/S
JimBee ?/Jun/07 2nd dog
with Ian Whitehead
rob1 21/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Jonny Martin
Hidden ?/Apr/07 -
John Lisle ??/2007 -
Sean Kelly ??/2007 -
rob askew ??/2007 Lead O/S

lead in wet. abseiled down to retrieve damp gear =). good climb.

with Lotte
andysroom ??/2007 Lead O/S
maybe_si 15/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with charlie
Hidden 15/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 06/Jul/06 Lead

Tricky to start with a great finish

with Dad
Ian_gozer 02/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Tim & Instructor
simontwinley 11/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/06 AltLd
Daniel Wrightson 03/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Rosemary Scott
gripped01 ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with RAFMA
Hidden ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead
Hidden 31/May/05 Lead O/S
ewen ?/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
Swirly ?/Aug/04 2nd
with Pete Morgan
lukea 31/Oct/03 AltLd

in pouring rain.

with Al
Gman ?/Aug/03 2nd O/S
with Dave
Hidden 29/Aug/01 Lead O/S
John Marsland 03/Sep/00 Lead
with Roger Dyke
Hidden 05/May/00 Lead
EllieWoods 22/Jun/99 2nd O/S
with Iestyn
Paul-Michael 16/May/98 2nd O/S
with Paul Nurse
big 02/Aug/97 -
charlesmfrench 27/Jul/97 2nd O/S
with Ian Milne
Paul Boardman ??/1996 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman
Martin Bennett 14/Apr/95 -
with Faz Faraday, Jerry Evans
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden 09/Jul/94 Lead
Hidden 17/Aug/93 Lead
Rob Davies 01/Jun/93 2nd
pingora 27/May/92 -
with A Blair
auld al 27/May/92 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 26/Oct/91 Lead
with Ian Hosley
Nick Biven ??/1990 -
Nick Biven ??/1990 -
babymoac 19/Aug/89 2nd
with Graeme
OMSKB ?/Aug/89 Lead
michael burrows 16/Jul/89 Lead O/S
with steve ward
nigehughes ?/Aug/84 Lead
with Ian Cameron
mark-abz 19/May/84 Lead
with Graham W
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 47
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set