40m. The alluring corner crack provides sustained and very well protected bridging moves on arguably the best route at the LH crag. Approach the ledge beneath the groove proper from the left, and exit towards the right following the in-situ thread marking the crux and the continuation crack above. There is a knotted rope in place at the top which provides the anchor to ab from but, as always, it is worth checking what the other end of the rope is attached to before trusting it with your life.

Ticklists: Ultimate E2 ticklist, Extreme 2018.

julesmckim 17/Nov/17 Lead rpt

Quality end to the day. Repeat ascent but still very enjoyable

with Rob Smart
Wendy Watthews 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S
TGHB 29/Oct/17 2nd O/S
cem 23/Sep/17 Lead rpt
Pero 23/Sep/17 2nd
riff156 17/Sep/17 2nd O/S
with Aiden Carlise
ChristyCole 27/Aug/17 2nd O/S
J.A.Thomson 27/Aug/17 Lead dog
with Christy
Andrew Sloan 25/Jul/17 Lead O/S

E2,5b about the right grade. Very dubious abseil anchor.

with Andy
Stickle Tarn 24/Jun/17 -
RobScarisbrick 14/May/17 2nd
with cdpuk
cdpuk 14/May/17 Lead O/S
Robrossmills 22/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Tala A 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Nathan Chrismas 25/Mar/17 Lead dog

Bridging a bit too wide for my hips to handle! Just made it to the thread but couldn't think out the rest of the sequence fast enough. Need to up my onsighting skillz. Pretty sure this will go next time.

with Timms
Cole Robertson 28/Jan/17 Lead O/S

Great climb. Wonderful technical sequence up the dihedral. First lead O/S E2!

Frank the Husky ??/2017 -
Stanners 28/Dec/16 Lead O/S

a brilliant route. It felt that the rock in the groove required care though! Wanted to do this for ages, winner.

with Martin Stanfield, James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
julesmckim 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S

A brilliant pitch. Great bridging sequence in the corner with good gear. Some interest at the top too - not as straightforward as it looks

Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
David Clover ?/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/16 2nd O/S
will rivers 07/May/16 2nd
Tom Pillow 07/May/16 Lead O/S

awesome techy bridging. I got pumped in my calves on an overhang, weird!

with Will Rivers
luke glaister 03/May/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Loved the bridging groove. Thread makes it easier. Nice. Another e2 for me.

poeter210 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Caroline
steve-grigg 21/Apr/16 Lead G/U
matthew.n.u 21/Apr/16 2nd

Cruxy moves bridging even as a 2nd. Well lead by Steve

Hidden 11/Mar/16 2nd dog
jon_gill1 11/Mar/16 Lead O/S

a great route that if there weren't a few snappy holds it would be three stars any day as the climbing is great technical bridging.

with nick loc
s.thursz 16/Feb/16 2nd
Doug miller 16/Feb/16 Lead dog

Frustratingly had a rest on the in situ thread, shame as got all the rest clean.

steve-grigg 30/Jan/16 Lead dnf

The corner was soaking, gave it a good try but had to admit defeat, looking forward to giving it another go

Cheese Monkey 15/Jan/16 Lead O/S

Made life hard for myself by mistakenly going out right, should of gone direct!

with Colin
Julie Carroll ??/2016 2nd
with Sol Fernandez
Stickle Tarn 10/Oct/15 Lead rpt
spoonernz ?/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Gibbo 19/Sep/15 2nd
with Ed Wright
Hidden 11/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Avon Man 16/Aug/15 2nd
with Derek
Luuuuuke 31/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with tom
tom0129 31/Jul/15 2nd β
NatCheeseman 19/Jun/15 2nd


with tobra
Hidden 19/Jun/15 Lead dog
AndyMcCoy 16/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Bill
Legs 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Great route. The continual bridging moves are awesome. Really chuffed with the onsight.

with Steve
steve_gibbs 11/Jun/15 2nd O/S
jsmcfarland 26/May/15 Lead O/S

Very sustained, gear is generally good and of course the thread is bomber. There is a key hold to get out of the crux that isn't entirely obvious, it's really easy to get pumped out of your mind trying to find a solution until you find it. Nearly came off but made it by the skin of my teeth! *** route. The anchor at the top looks super dodgy.

with Steve
alastairbegley 13/May/15 Lead RP

Seconded this two years ago. Enjoyable route, in situ thread is excessively long so can be clipped from pretty low down.

Hidden 13/May/15 2nd O/S
adam 24 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Caroline
Hidden 26/Apr/15 2nd rpt
climbingpixie 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Claire
Leelogs 04/Apr/15 2nd
jordana86 ??/2015 2nd

Slipped off at the Crux!

Hidden 13/Dec/14 2nd O/S
Kirill 04/Oct/14 Lead O/S

The in-situ thread makes it quite easy.

mike.moss 04/Oct/14 2nd O/S
theotherpetehill ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Caroline Culwick
Derek Ryden 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Easiest E2 I've done in the Wye Valley. Just when you think it's going to get herd, it gets easier. Great route though.

with Andy Forbes
Tim W 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Cat, Paul Black
ian d f 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Pete H
clams ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
MD 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

A small hold crumbled in my hand near the thread, thankfully I didn't fall off. The route is very technical and more sustained than I expected.

with Jo, Ed
eduardo 16/Aug/14 2nd
with Mike D
Happy Wanderer 16/Aug/14 2nd dog

The tat was too much of a temptation when disco feet set in.

with Ed, Mike D
AlexRenshaw 22/Jun/14 Lead
Ollie B 31/May/14 Lead O/S

More footholds than i was expecting.

with A.Rosier
evhall 15/May/14 Lead O/S

So...all was going well - onsighted the crux - 2m above looking to get into balance when a hold snapped and I went flying...climbed back to below the crux and then had a moment to compose (ie rested) and then continued and finished climb (ie onsighted the top bit) - so overall I'm going to give myself a clean onsight :-) By the way - excellent route - but rock is rather dodgy in many places...lovely new thread and low in the grade..and more like 5b...

with Jon
mallardhealhook 15/May/14 2nd O/S
with Evhall
bpmclimb 30/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Not sure that the thread needs to be in situ at this grade, although it makes a nice, comforting target :)

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 30/Mar/14 2nd
NB Pixel 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Found crux hard & went up past gear. Going back for gear was slightly tricky!

with Tom
Tubs 15/Mar/14 Lead

A striking feature that caused some serious burn on the leg muscles.

with Naomi
Ricky Rocks 11/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Paz 28/Sep/13 2nd
with CC
Stone Muppet 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Would be E1 if someone replaced the thread every year? (also why is the belay rope tied to a tiny holly when there is an enormous beech tree right next to it?!)

with Paz
tedj234 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Kate, Harry
Dibdawg 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Richard Snow
LucasHarazin 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hooo 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Went out right looking for handholds just above the thread, and had to do a big swing back in off a not very substantial flake. Don't think I'd have done that on lead. Not really 5c I think.

Chris Sieradzki 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Soft E2 5c. I'd grade it myself more like solid hard E1 5b although very nice and technical bridging climb on some crimple holds. My first ever route where my legs got pumped more than my arms. :)

with Hooo
Stickle Tarn 22/Aug/13 2nd β
NancyJones 20/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Shaun
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
crossdressingrodney 05/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead rpt
bpmclimb 27/May/13 2nd rpt
with Helen S
alastairbegley 15/May/13 2nd O/S
Gavdee1 19/Apr/13 2nd
Kevster 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Anthony Dixon 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
jcook1980 04/Mar/13 Lead
with Dan Moore
Hidden 01/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
Tomar 17/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Never really hard if bridged right (which I did) and you can hang around as long as you like placing gear left right and center.

with Kelly
msoldn 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Pleasant steady climbing, don't let yourself get distracted by rubbish flaky rock as you get started up the groove, the rock gets better as you go higher. The in-situ thread makes the route a grade easier.

with Thomasina
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead
simonf 24/Jul/12 Lead dog

Had a wee rest on the thread just below the crux - the ancient static cord creaked and that gave me the motivation to just get on with the rest of it!

with Simon
steve gould 21/Jul/12 2nd
cem 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Straightforward bridging route. I noticed while abseiling down after the climb, this is actually pretty steep, even though I hadn't felt so. Simon's first Extreme (to make to the top).

with Jamie R, Simon P
Hidden 22/May/12 Lead O/S
andy dunn 06/May/12 Lead O/S

rock was a bit loose looking in places. some pretty tentative bridging over to the left hand side of the groove.

with J
Hidden 20/Apr/12 Lead O/S
thomb 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Aaron Lines 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Gibbo 25/Oct/11 2nd
with Ollie Keynes
Nick Russell 08/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead
maffujones 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Zuzana Deans
riddle 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Top out is very over grown and loose. Superb route though.

with Yasmina
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd
Dean Russell 13/May/11 Lead O/S
Goose4 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 01/Apr/11 2nd O/S
AlexD 01/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Ceri
Hidden 22/Mar/11 2nd β
bpmclimb 22/Mar/11 Lead rpt

Excellent, thoroughly absorbing climbing.

with Helen S
Tim Sparrow ??/2011 -
dswansonlow 13/Nov/10 2nd O/S
with John Brown
JonBrown 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Awesome! 3 stars if it wasnt so crumbly!

with Dougie
peaches69 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with sarah
Paul Robertson 22/Aug/10 2nd rpt
gripped01 ?/Aug/10 Lead
with Gilbert
metal arms 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
AJM 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Well protected, excellent fun. Calf pumpy as anything though...!

with Alex Mason, Ali Morris
stuart34 09/Jun/10 2nd
RagingPuffin 22/May/10 Lead O/S
lizzie789 22/May/10 2nd dog
Hidden 18/Apr/10 2nd dog
Greg Pittam 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant, Technical but not pumpy.

with Raff
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/10 2nd O/S
irish paul 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 21/Mar/10 2nd O/S
tobydunford 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Trefo 28/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Bloody brilliant!Really exciting and tiring on the legs.really pleased to have led this at this stage of the season. Had a foot pop just after clipping the thread and was left dangling by one hand, with the other hand in my chalkbag-got the heart going!!

with chris james
W d c ??/2010 Lead O/S
mrfeebus ??/2010 -
chris wyatt 07/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Not so easy to read the rock. A good route

with steve tree
james.lane 09/Sep/09 2nd
with Adam
Circus 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Marti999 22/Aug/09 Lead β
Didymus 11/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Nice route. Sustained but well protected at crux which is top of groove. The other end of the single rope & mallion lower-off is tied to a small tree trunk - we decided to walk off.

with Rich
Hidden ?/Aug/09 2nd
3 Names 31/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/09 Lead O/S
stephaneSi 27/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Sam W 04/Jul/09 Lead
cornishben 30/Jun/09 Lead O/S
DorsetGareth 30/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Dan_Carroll 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Eric Herring
Bristoldave 13/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Owen W-G 17/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Nice route. Super gear and not nearly as hard as I was expecting after more than 6 months of rock-free fatherhood. Loads of good footholds to bridge from, and some pretty decent hand holds too with an in-situ thread above your head for the crux. E1 5b.

with Rigby
Phil PBC ??/2009 -
Hidden 25/Oct/08 Lead
gdb4060 06/Aug/08 Lead

E2 5c

with Rick Sewards
Bristoldave 31/May/08 Lead dog

Rested on crux.

with Joe & Caroline
CarolineH 31/May/08 2nd dnf

In the dark.

with Dave and Joe
just one more 26/Apr/08 Lead
with Svenn G
DannyK 16/Apr/08 2nd O/S

E2 5c

with pep
bpmclimb 17/Mar/08 Lead O/S

E2 5c in the new guidebook

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 17/Mar/08 2nd
Mark A Humphries 04/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with dean howard
tom.e 01/May/06 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
Jon Greengrass ??/2005 -
with Paul H
greedo ?/Jul/02 2nd


with Tim bray
Hidden 30/Jun/02 2nd
craig h 29/Apr/97 TR O/S
with Shunted
mark-abz 25/Mar/90 Lead
with Ian D
Hidden 28/Jan/89 Lead
DDDD ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Chris Brown
The Reaper 10/Jul/83 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 07/Jun/80 Lead rpt
with Charlie
Chris Terrey ?/Jan/80 2nd
with Mike Quantrell, Mike Morrison
Steve Lewis 20/Dec/75 2nd
with Morty, sharpie
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 54
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set