4 pitches.
Located close to the trail that leads up to the main Toride Iwa wall
1st pitch is squeeze chimney that begins after climbing over short vertical section of tree roots.
2nd pitch up an "arching," hollow, sounding flake with tat wrapped around a nugget of rock on top. Original line probably continues up a well-filled in finger crack that starts at the top of the flake. As it is filled in, faffed to the left and up to regain the vertical crack above. Belayed off #4 and #5 BD cams in a small nook.
3rd pitch straight up on lovely hand jams that continue in an "arch" into a traverse to another interesting belay, albeit with much more room.
4th pitch starts up small off-width and continues the "arch" on a bit more crumbly rock.
In-situ rope sling, bit sketchy, to abseil off 8 meters lands you at the foot of the main Toride Iwa face in front of Apache Crack and JUST FOUR YEARS.
1st pitch is squeeze chimney that begins after climbing over short vertical section of tree roots.
2nd pitch up an "arching," hollow, sounding flake with tat wrapped around a nugget of rock on top. Original line probably continues up a well-filled in finger crack that starts at the top of the flake. As it is filled in, faffed to the left and up to regain the vertical crack above. Belayed off #4 and #5 BD cams in a small nook.
3rd pitch straight up on lovely hand jams that continue in an "arch" into a traverse to another interesting belay, albeit with much more room.
4th pitch starts up small off-width and continues the "arch" on a bit more crumbly rock.
In-situ rope sling, bit sketchy, to abseil off 8 meters lands you at the foot of the main Toride Iwa face in front of Apache Crack and JUST FOUR YEARS.
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Route of Interest
Casablanca
Grade: 5.10a ***
(Ogawayama)