UKC Logbook - 'Unicorn'

Rockfax Description
Unicorn offers friction climbing for 6 pitches to an exit chimney. The chimney dries slowly and should be avoided when wet. An optional last pitch can be climbed after the chimney, or you can walk off left. The route is rigged for abseil.
Approach - From the campground/parking area follow the road along the base of the mountain. Walk past a boulder problem sticking out into the road and turn right just before a dam. Walk along this dam straight up to the base of the wall. The second pitch has some formations worth looking for to locate the start of the route. Some bolts show the way up the first pitch.
1) N6-, 60m. Start up grey slab, aiming for a high bolt. Continue past a 2nd bolt and climb through two overlaps, the second with a peg in it. 4 bolts and one peg lead to the belay.
2) N7-, 60m. Traverse left to reach some flakes. Continue up these through an under-cling section and then easy moves on flakes lead to the next belay. Use some longer slings at the beginning of the pitch to avoid rope drag.
3) N6+, 60m. Continue up the remaining part of the flake system and onto slabby rock. Climb through an overlap to the next belay.
4) N6, 60m. Friction is the name of the game. Push on to the first bolt, which is a bit high above the belay. Use the sparingly-placed bolts (3 in total) to navigate to the belay. First trend slightly left, then about half way up, trend slightly right, aiming for a small groove. There is some gear near the end of the pitch. Not as hard as the previous pitches but psychologically very testing!
5) N5+, 50m. Climb up beneath the huge overlap that splits this part of the face. Follow this leftwards until you can climb up through it. Above the overlap, head up and to the right to another belay. Some loose rock might be encountered on this pitch.
6) N6+, 50m. Start awkwardly straight above the belay. Climb up to a knife-blade and a hard-to-clip bolt. After this trend right with relatively easy climbing until a final testing section with some tiny gear.
7) N6+, 35m. Friction moves lead to an overhanging chimney with flakes in it. Climb this with slings on the flakes as protection, or bring very large cams. Belay at the top of the chimney.
8) N7-, 35m. A steep pitch following cracks and grooves winding left and right to the top.
Descent - Either abseil down the route or, from the top of the mountain, follow the ridge west (plenty of cairns) and pass one steep section before you head down a slab into a gully that cuts across your path. Turn right and descend more steeply, down a very well-worn path through the woods. This path joins a blue-marked path that leads down to the road beneath Hægefjell. Follow the road back to the camp. The descent takes approximately 1.5 hours. © Rockfax