UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

14m. The earlier of the two versions. Takes the right edge of the square rib, right of Sometimes I Won’t Thrill You. Surprisingly technical. Pull up and make a tricky couple of moves to stand on a small ledge. Step around to the right side of the narrow arête, and climb it on crystalline holds. A final high step up left gains a double ring abseil. Five bolt runners. The left-hand version, staying just left of the bolts, is now listed separately as It's Over For Jehovah (1).

Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones 22/May/2015.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K

Feedback

User Date Notes
Paul at work 9 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A large crystalline crimp / hand hold was pulled off this today as the person was rocking round the arete. A few more of the crystalline holds felt suspect.
Show beta
βeta: A large crystalline crimp / hand hold was pulled off this today as the person was rocking round the arete. A few more of the crystalline holds felt suspect.
Ivan Kileff 9 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: (1) Left of the bolts
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: (1) Left of the bolts
springfall2008 1 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Easier if you move out right onto the crystal holds at half height
Show beta
βeta: Easier if you move out right onto the crystal holds at half height

Logged Ascents

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