Restricted Access
Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.
There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.
Rockfax Description
An eliminate to the crack at the top (first gear). If you are able to place any runners in Biggles... then you are too far left. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
direct start to Biggles Flies Undone is quite a serious proposition. start a metre right of Biggles Flies Undone then head straight up. to the crack at the top (first gear). the 5c crux is not that high off the floor but the 5b crux of Biggles Flies Undone is quite high. if you able to place any runners as for Biggles Flies Undone then you are too far left.
J Shieldhouse-Hadley 02/Jun/2015.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| LucaC | 18 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Dug a couple of RP3 slots half way to the better gear. One is good enough for a body weight rest. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Dug a couple of RP3 slots half way to the better gear. One is good enough for a body weight rest. |
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| Pete Smalls | 3 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Original first ascent 30.05.1988, if you avoid the crack its 6A | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Original first ascent 30.05.1988, if you avoid the crack its 6A |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry
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Genericon Limits
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Clogwyn Yr Adar)