Restricted Access
A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,
This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too:
- All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
- Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply
- Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat
- No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
- Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
- No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
- No further new routing
Rockfax Description
A bouldery mission with three hard sections, the final sequence involving a big span. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Front face of buttress with desperate and height-dependant finale.
Starts 3m to the right of the double bolt belay of "Too hot to touch". Pull through the starting roof, and climb to the thin break benath an overlap. Continue up to the next wide break, and navigate the final face to the pig tail lower off.
Gary Gibson 25/May/2012.
Ticklists
Ban-y-Gor Master , 8s with stars near Bristol , Soft touches near Bristol
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Daniel Heber | 16 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: My First 8a! As such I don't feel completely qualified to cast my vote on the grade. I will say however, that it came as a surprise to see the climb receive so many votes in the 7c-7c+ range because I thought it was absolutely nails and much harder than any 7c I've tried. Furthermore the final boulder problem requires a huge reach which would have felt impossible for me if I was any shorter. When I first tried the climb, both the middle and top crux felt absolutely impossible to me and I almost gave up. Luckily I gave it another shot and managed to work out the middle crux and found a hold which made the top possible as well. Because I nearly gave up through not knowing the beta I have decided to give my beta on here in case it helps anyone else who is thinking of giving up like I was! Middle boulder problem: Left hand on crimp over the break underneath the clip, right hand up to the rightwards side pull. Grab this side high. Work both feet up onto the polished bit under the break Put right heel into the bottom of the right side pull Pull and catch the small sloper high to the left Pull again to catch the large textured sloper up and right Then stand on the starting crimp to reach the break Top Boulder problem: Left hand to obvious crimp over the break. Bring left foot up quite high to small long crease underneath the break Grab the underside of the break with right hand (marked with chalk when I did it) and step up onto left foot From here, using the undercut of the break, reach to the high and obvious left crimp Grab right hand crimp next to the right and use the pocket to reach the top crimp to clip | ||
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Show beta
βeta: My First 8a! As such I don't feel completely qualified to cast my vote on the grade. I will say however, that it came as a surprise to see the climb receive so many votes in the 7c-7c+ range because I thought it was absolutely nails and much harder than any 7c I've tried. Furthermore the final boulder problem requires a huge reach which would have felt impossible for me if I was any shorter. When I first tried the climb, both the middle and top crux felt absolutely impossible to me and I almost gave up. Luckily I gave it another shot and managed to work out the middle crux and found a hold which made the top possible as well. Because I nearly gave up through not knowing the beta I have decided to give my beta on here in case it helps anyone else who is thinking of giving up like I was! Middle boulder problem: Left hand on crimp over the break underneath the clip, right hand up to the rightwards side pull. Grab this side high. Work both feet up onto the polished bit under the break Put right heel into the bottom of the right side pull Pull and catch the small sloper high to the left Pull again to catch the large textured sloper up and right Then stand on the starting crimp to reach the break Top Boulder problem: Left hand to obvious crimp over the break. Bring left foot up quite high to small long crease underneath the break Grab the underside of the break with right hand (marked with chalk when I did it) and step up onto left foot From here, using the undercut of the break, reach to the high and obvious left crimp Grab right hand crimp next to the right and use the pocket to reach the top crimp to clip |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Ban-y-gor
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Match Point
Grade: 8a ***
(Ban-y-gor)