Rockfax Description
The first route on the Bwlch y Moch is a pleasant outing, though the initial 8m is pretty much unprotected. Begin by scrambling to the start of Valerie's Rib. Continue up a little further and make an exposed traverse right to the base of the route. Some may want to rope up for this traverse.
1) 25m, From the ledge, go up the left side of the buttress, past a tree with a sawn off branch - this branch is the only runner. Gain the slab and move delicately up with no protection until you gain a groove on the right and gear. Ascend this groove briefly until you can move right below a steepening to gain a more direct crack that leads up to a spacious ledge and tree belay.
2) 28m. Move up and right, keeping to the rock where possible to gain the deep alcove up and left. From the back of the alcove, go up left to gain the arete and then follow this up to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
first route from the cafe, care required on approach, some of the roughest rock left at Tremadog.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dog Dave | 4 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wasp nest in a hole near the big tree at start of pitch 1, enough room to get past onto the spike but be careful not to put a hand in it | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Wasp nest in a hole near the big tree at start of pitch 1, enough room to get past onto the spike but be careful not to put a hand in it |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Will o' the Wisp
Grade: HVD ***
(Craig Cywarch (aka Craig Cowarch))