170m, 5 pitches. The 'new' route on the Brévent face. Starts just to the right of Frison-Roche. 5 pitches - 6a, 5c, 6a, 6b (A0), 5c. Good climbing on the whole, in particular the 6b pitch which is excellent. Rock is slightly loose in places though so take care. Fully bolted though a bit spaced so not one for pushing your grade on.

Thierry Renault, Jonathan Charlet, Christophe Blaszczyk 2014

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UserDateNotes
Stuart Johnston 30 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Don't start too far right of frisson Roche as there is another line of bolts at about 6A. We traverse to piste oubliee after the 2nd pitch. Leaving gear. 6a and 6b pitches are pure quality face climbing.
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βeta: Don't start too far right of frisson Roche as there is another line of bolts at about 6A. We traverse to piste oubliee after the 2nd pitch. Leaving gear. 6a and 6b pitches are pure quality face climbing.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 27 Aug AltLd O/S
Ulgrid 18 Aug AltLd Second time on this route, this time I got the crux. A fantastic first route of the trip.
Second time on this route, this time I got the crux. A fantastic first route of the trip.
Hidden 30 Jul AltLd O/S
steve_gibbs 21 Jul AltLd O/S
with John Hartley
with John Hartley
JohnHartley 21 Jul AltLd O/S Actually really good! First couple of pitches a bit chossy but the last three are amazing face climbing. Better than fris on roche
Actually really good! First couple of pitches a bit chossy but the last three are amazing face climbing. Better than fris on roche
Andy Lagan 13 Jul AltLd O/S
Stuart Johnston 30 Jun Lead O/S
with Lara Kesterton
with Lara Kesterton
ConorWalter 13 Jul, 2018 - Not as chossy as expected. Some great moves
with Cathal, Culann
Not as chossy as expected. Some great moves
with Cathal, Culann
WTorrensa 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Gemmazrobo 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S We defo meant to do this.. fun at points but not a classic, pretty dirty and loose at top. 6b pitch interesting.
We defo meant to do this.. fun at points but not a classic, pretty dirty and loose at top. 6b pitch interesting.
scorpia97 24 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Some big bits of loose rock in places, pulled a hand hold off and took a reasonable fall just missing a few ledges. Partner knocked off a microwave sized block, thankfully as it was late in the evening there was no one else around. The route is pretty good for brevant and nicely sustained. We linked the pitches together which made it pretty tough on the arms.
with Ollie McAndrew, Peter Murdoch
Some big bits of loose rock in places, pulled a hand hold off and took a reasonable fall just missing a few ledges. Partner knocked off a microwave sized block, thankfully as it was late in the evening there was no one else around. The route is pretty good for brevant and nicely sustained. We linked the pitches together which made it pretty tough on the arms.
with Ollie McAndrew, Peter Murdoch
Hidden 14 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Rharrison 14 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S W/Luke and tom
W/Luke and tom
Hidden 13 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Ulgrid 13 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Matt Groom 29 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
mcgovern 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd Absolute shite but enjoyable. Done after Babylon which is much better
Absolute shite but enjoyable. Done after Babylon which is much better
Paul Collins 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Paul Collins ??, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Petarghh 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd
YellowFellow 11 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S I led pitches 3 & 4
with Dalit
I led pitches 3 & 4
with Dalit
Hidden 9 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Adam_42 2 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Crux pitch would have been perfect had it not been for the dangerously inept guide on the Frisson shouting instructions at his client. Can't fault the climbing however.
with Andre
Crux pitch would have been perfect had it not been for the dangerously inept guide on the Frisson shouting instructions at his client. Can't fault the climbing however.
with Andre
Jenn_Stretton 2 Aug, 2015 AltLd
DaveThexton 2 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S 6b pitch was just perfect. Some suspect rock on first and last pitch but worth putting up with for middle pitches. Nice to look back smugly at the queues on the frisson too.
6b pitch was just perfect. Some suspect rock on first and last pitch but worth putting up with for middle pitches. Nice to look back smugly at the queues on the frisson too.
Hidden 31 Jul, 2015 AltLd
AnnaBacklund ?Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Teappleby 23 Jun, 2014 AltLd Finally found this route on ukc! We tried to do the voie-frison Roche. And though we did the direct first pitch but ended up the wrong side of the gully doing this. We went to the guides office afterwards and they didn't have any records of this route at this point. Here's what I wrote at the time "We set off to do this route, but by miss reading the guidebook and seeing a line of bolts we thought we were doing the 6a start but instead the bolts went the other side of the gorge, right of the actual route, the bolts were good so we carried on to the top. 5 pitches, brilliantly bolted and a crux pitch of about 6b+. Must be very new though because it is not in the guidebook and also hasn't been logged as a new route at the guides office yet either!"
Finally found this route on ukc! We tried to do the voie-frison Roche. And though we did the direct first pitch but ended up the wrong side of the gully doing this. We went to the guides office afterwards and they didn't have any records of this route at this point. Here's what I wrote at the time "We set off to do this route, but by miss reading the guidebook and seeing a line of bolts we thought we were doing the 6a start but instead the bolts went the other side of the gorge, right of the actual route, the bolts were good so we carried on to the top. 5 pitches, brilliantly bolted and a crux pitch of about 6b+. Must be very new though because it is not in the guidebook and also hasn't been logged as a new route at the guides office yet either!"
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