UKC

5 pitches. The narrow ridge at the south of Qeqertarssuaq island forms a challenging traverse for competent climbers with scrambling/mountaineering experience. Starting from the inlet, Itissoq, hike East, up towards the lake and continue on to the col. Head southwest to the obvious start of the ridge, a 20m step. Mount the step by route of choice. An easier option is the crack on the left face graded about HVS. Continue to the base of the next step. Again, an easier option is to traverse round the left leading to a ledge (20n, S). Climb to the top of the step from here, 25m, HVS. Continue up a bouldery but surprisingly solid corner to reach the top of another step, 30m, HS. Continue up the ridge on easier ground, it is advised to rope up as it is exposed and there are loose blocks and occasional challenges. Belay sections for added security.
Continue to the summit of the first ridge. The ground eases for a significant section so the rope can be put away. Continue along the next ridge which narrows after a while. A traverse to the left and climb (HVS) is recommended as the ridge becomes very narrow and loose.
Return to the ridge and continue easily to the summit.
Descend from the ridge down mossy and rocky terraces. Keep near the ridge on the right to avoid step ground on the left and another ridge. Approach each brow carefully as eventually one reveals a steep slab and the start of the abseils.
5 or 6 abseils should suffice for the 250m descent. Climbing nuts may need to be left behind.
Reach the large grassy ledge and hike back to the starting point.

Recommended gear:
2x 60m half ropes
Climbing shoes and approach shoes
Full set of protection. Big cams useful
Abseil tat and maillons

Patrick Deacon, Robert Beddow 08/Jul/2015.

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