UKC

215m, 7 pitches. 215m, 7 pitches, IV, III, V+, IV+, III, VI, IV+

Standard trad rack

Great climbing on fantastic solid rock. The pitch of VI is an absolute cracker featuring climbing up a crack to an odd offwidth roof which is easier than it looks. After this the climbing is easier but only just and has interesting moves between good rests.

1) start by a painted name (Vento) and climb in a diedre for 30m to a bolt belay.
2) climb easily above the belay until you reach a hanging arete - turn this to the left and a bolt belay.
3) climb the diedre above with increasing difficulty but a lot of fixed gear where it gets harder. Step out of the corner to a bolt belay in a bay.
4) climb easily into a corner above with some good moves. Reach a bolt and continue up and left easily to a bolt belay.
5) step left to climb a spike, clip a bolt on the wall above and pull surprisingly easily onto the wall above, follow a corner up the arete above to a bolt, then a three bolt belay.
6) climb rightwards up a soaring corner to an offwidth chimney protected (an possibly cheated) by a bolt. Above, follow pegs and bolts up an arete before moving briefly back into the corner, then back out, and eventually to a bolt belay.
7) climb the block above the belay, clip a peg on the mainland and step across. Now climb directly above to a bolt, then up to the top.

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High VI+
Mid VI+
Low VI+
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
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Route of Interest
Big Micheluzzi

Grade: VI ***
(Piz Ciavazes)

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