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The rock quality is extremely variable: some is very solid, some is treacherously loose, most is in need of a clean. Parts of the top of the crag have an unpleasant cap of mud - soloists be warned!As with all Southern Sandstone, top-roping and soloing/bouldering are the only accepted methods of ascent. Tree belays are fairly plentiful here but can be tricky to set up due to the mud. Make sure you extend the anchor so no moving rope is in contact with the rock.

The furthest buttress from the road. This starts on the left arĂȘte before moving right via a mono to finish up and round the corner of the right arĂȘte. I used the tree routes to top out as the rock quality is poor at the top. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0iUEM986hg

Tom Gore 17/Aug/2015.

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