Rockfax Description
III, 220m, 4 - 5 hours. A target route for any alpinist, the fixed ropes on the upper part of this route make it a much more reasonable prospect than if it were a free climb. Regardless of the ropes it has bags of exposure and has one of the best and pointiest summits in the Alps.
Approach - From the Helbronner lift, head north to pass under the northwest toe of the Aiguilles Marbrées. Turn northeast and climb gently to pass between Pointe 3516 and Pointe 3537 before turning north to reach a short snow couloir dropping down from the rib which leads to the Salle à Manger. Reaching the foot of this couloir takes around 90 minutes from the Helbronner lift. In good snow conditions, and with no one above you, the couloir itself can be climbed, but it is safer and only marginally more technical to climb broken rock to the left. Either option brings you to a small col. From here climb the rib on the right via the line of least resistance, which will depend on snow cover and conditions but is usually on or just left of the crest. Where the crest gets steeper and more solid, near the foot of the Dent, move left and climb up to the ridge just to the right of the Salle à Manger - a flat spot just below the crest of the Rochefort Arête. Getting from the foot of the small snow couloir to the Salle à Manger takes roughly 1 hour and you can leave axes and crampons there and retrieve them on the way down. Go down the snow slope to reach the foot of the Dent's southwest face and cross a 10m long ledge to reach an exposed bolt belay, from where the route starts.
1) 4a/A0 or 4c. Step left and then climb the awkward gully for 20m (4c or 4a with a cheeky pull on a bolt - there are five bolts all together on the pitch) to a belay on an iron stanchion beneath a deep gully.
2) 4b. Climb the gully easily enough on positive holds and step left at the top via a tricky mantelshelf move (4b) to reach a large ledge at the foot of the huge Burgerner slabs, which are equipped with huge fixed ropes.
3) It is possible to free climb the slabs but the presence of the fixed ropes makes this somewhat arbitrary. Yard up for 50m with bolts for protection to another stunningly-positioned belay.
4) Carry on up the slabs for 25m before following the ropes out rightwards on mind blowingly exposed traverse using the ropes and some good flakes to a belay beneath some flake-filled chimneys.
5) 4c. Climb the chimneys (4c) in a superb position and with the ropes still to help you.
6) Stay right of the ridge crest, passing some short walls, before getting onto the crest of the ridge just below Pointe Selle (the south summit of the Dent du Géant) and climbing to the summit.
7) 3c. From Pointe Selle, descend a short chimney (3c) and traverse the easy but exposed ridge to the higher north summit. Give the summit madonna a peck and admire the spectacular view!
Descent - Abseil down the south face. The first anchor is between the two summits of the Dent, on the Courmayeur side. There are anchors at least every 30m so it is possible to abseil with either a single 60m rope or double ropes. The abseils are steep and a stuck rope could be extremely hard to retrieve in some places so take great care! From the Salle à Manger, descend via the approach rib. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
See the Alpine Club guide or just follow the crowds. In addition to this watch out for frequent stonefall when ascending the loose mixed ground under the Salle a Manger.
If you choose to don't use the fixed ropes it goes at D V+.

B, D and J Maquignaz 28/Jul/1882

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Mark's Alpine Ideas 2017, Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+).

Rhys Deane 25/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
with Jack Matcalf
JackM92 25/Sep/17 AltLd

Cool route, very cold and windy so fortunately not too busy. Climbed in boots and thick gloves throughout.

Hidden 15/Sep/17 -
Mike Bovill 07/Sep/17 2nd O/S
ross83 06/Sep/17 2nd
gallonj 05/Sep/17 -
K Mckay 26/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Paul Gibbison
LanceSolf 25/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/17 -
Felicity Eperon 23/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Josh Abrahams
Hidden 23/Aug/17 2nd O/S
CameronH 22/Aug/17 AltLd
Hidden 22/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/17 -
BlackheathDiggs 15/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Samuel Wainwright 06/Aug/17 AltLd dnf
wchan 04/Aug/17 2nd
George.D 04/Aug/17 2nd
birks3746 03/Aug/17 -

Good and bad day, left at 6am smashed guidebook time, didn't like the choss fest approach - go on the ridge not the couloir, much better. On the way back, less than 5 mins from the lift through snowbridge in to crevasse, high temps making slush. Properly terrifying fall 10m down. Be really really careful in these connies

with Phil
sanguine 29/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Took forever - partners a bit shaky - but managed to free climb most of it at least

with Daithi
Hidden 16/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Julian Prieto 16/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
j.buckley87 15/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
edprince 04/Jul/17 AltLd

Far more anchors for the abseil than expected, definitely can do in 30m stages, if not less.

with Tom Hocking
ftocher 04/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Robbie Blease 04/Jul/17 AltLd

The most amazing route of my life so far!!! Absolutely stunning, fixed ropes or not!

with Francis
superturbo 03/Jul/17 AltLd

Lift to lift. Difficult approach conditions after the glacier - loose rock and little snow. Enjoyable climb in big boots. Took 12 Qd's, no gear. Great objective despite the ropes

with Steve Gib
niallsash 02/Jul/17 -

Full Scottish

neal 24/Jun/17 AltLd

Great summit, shame about all the fixed ropes. From Torino hut. Started early start as forecast was to deteriorate. Snow not refrozen on glacier. Climbed in cold wind and mist, Sun came out on summit. Abseils very well equipped. Used single 60m rope. Excellent equalised 2 bolt anchors with rings every 20-25m or so.

with Stuart Mcleod
Steve Woollard 19/Jun/17 AltLd

Not really a top 50 route. The approach is very chossy if not snow covered and dangerous if teams are above you

with Gavin
Hidden ??/2017 -
Hidden ?/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
RClothier 29/Sep/16 AltLd
with AmyG
AmyG 29/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Robin
Chubbs 08/Sep/16 -
John Procter 04/Sep/16 AltLd
with tom humphreys
MightyStew 04/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Michi Sebastian
scorpia97 ?/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Climbed with Jess after Rochefort Arete

humptydumpty 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3, and the P that took us to the first summit. Felt nauseous most of the second half, but better by the summit. Rack: 4 tricams, 11 slingdraws; didn't place a single tricam.

SeánM 27/Aug/16 AltLd
Rob N 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with SeánM
A Jackson 25/Aug/16 -
masa-alpin 11/Aug/16 AltLd

Rob lead P2, 4 and I did P1, 3. Rather cold and in P3, 4, I (we) pulled on ropes with big boots. Still physical. Abed off.

perrys 11/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
robgixer 11/Aug/16 AltLd
benwmorgan 08/Aug/16 AltLd
mike.moss 08/Aug/16 AltLd
Hidden 08/Aug/16 Lead
davidswannn 03/Aug/16 2nd

Climbed with Gavin Pike IFMGA BMG

Gumery 03/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Grant
Rob Royle 26/Jul/16 2nd
with Seb (Mountain Guide)
Nikolay C.K. Tjøstheim 18/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

easy in good conditions

machars 18/Jul/16 AltLd

6 hour return trip from Helbronner. Shamelessly yarded up on ropes!

with Flynn
Hidden 17/Jul/16 AltLd
Petarghh 07/Jul/16 Lead
dawp4810 07/Jul/16 2nd
jayray 01/Jul/16 2nd
Pero 01/Jul/16 Lead
Martin Haworth 01/Jul/16 AltLd dnf

Left Chamonix at 6am and got to the Salle a manger at 9:30am but there was a queue of over a dozen teams waiting to start. Hung around for 30 minutes and things weren't moving quickly so decided to go back down. Weather started to turn as we descended so didn't feel too disappointed.

murray ?/Jul/16 AltLd
with Dan
Jacob Jutrem ?/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
monsteratt 26/Jun/16 Lead

From the 2nd lift. Made fairly good time. Lead the whole thing in mountain boots and avoided ropes until last pitch. Just a bit too slow (soft snow on the walk) back and missed the last lift by 15 mins so stayed in the Torino.

Alex Riley 22/Jun/16 Lead O/S

All free, no ropes. Fell through bergschrund on descent. Long day, ended up staying at Torino due to slow party ahead.

with Anna Riley, Steve (guernsey)
Hugh Simons 10/Jun/16 AltLd

Moved together, using fixed ropes for speed. Lovely day!

with Liam
calumhicks 10/Jun/16 AltLd

Moved together, awesome climb! In boots, gloves and a warm jacket! Shame about the fixed ropes, although they were welcome considering the cold temps

with Martini, David McKinney
Liam Watson 10/Jun/16 AltLd
joelevanschamonix 29/Aug/15 AltLd
with Tim Oliver, Ally Hurst
Hidden 27/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 27/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 21/Aug/15 Lead
saaruli 20/Aug/15 AltLd
with Erik
Hidden 20/Aug/15 AltLd
Oo 17/Aug/15 -
jules1990 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Dave Missing
Michael 03/Aug/15 -
alooker ?/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 20/Jul/15 Lead
HP9 16/Jul/15 2nd
with Tomo cesen
Fletch12 15/Jul/15 Lead

Second Alpine lead.

with Anthony Darbyshire, Kenny McMahon
Avinash Aujayeb 15/Jul/15 2nd
with ales cesen
ned_85 15/Jul/15 AltLd

Without fixed ropes; amazing route and location but they do detract from the experience a little. First on the route and well worthy of the cold start.

JdotP ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

A few cheeky pulls on the fixed rope near the top when time was running short...

with Luke Bounds, The innocent one, Magda Borkowska
davkeo 27/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

5am start. Cold and windy. Climbed in down jacket and gloves all the way monkeying up the fixed rope. Looks like a nice free climb if u can avoid the big white cord. Very physical.

cearbhalld 27/Jun/15 AltLd

Bitterly cold after early start from Rifugio Torino. Dogged up the big white rope...would have been more comfortable in boots.

joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 25/Aug/14 2nd RP
ollyroberts 25/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Frank Blakeley 21/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Paul
Paul ablitt 18/Aug/14 AltLd

45 kph wind very cold

Bristol_Quornstar 08/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Paolo Intropido
Hidden 05/Aug/14 Lead
Jo sumner 05/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 01/Aug/14 AltLd
andy_e 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Mike Gallimore
ernieb182 ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Route was very busy with complete idiots and newbies. Used the fixed ropes twice just to get past them quicker. Brilliant route!

with Remco Graas
kelly_426 ?/Jul/14 -
with Tom Nichols, Luke Dudill
paulmck 10/Jun/14 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
david0811 04/Sep/13 AltLd
with Locky, Mark Reid
Ross L 04/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Robin Beadle
Hidden 29/Aug/13 Lead
MichaelGallimore 14/Jul/13 AltLd

Climbed in the morning, very cold. Beautiful summit, hairy abseil. Nigel dropped his wallet and €600 went floating down the mountin, making for a crystal maze style abseil descent.

with Bern hardman, Nigel
Nigel Bond 14/Jul/13 AltLd
with Bern Hardman, Michael Gallimore
stanleynkk ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

A brilliant route, would be better without the fixed rope and fixed gear.

PtereBradley ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Phil Dowthwaite
walts4 ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
maria85 27/Aug/12 Lead

Left the cable car late - 11.30 - having the route to ourselves was worth the descent in the dark! Shamelessly pulled on the ropes the whole way to speed things up.

with Ronnie
Hidden 27/Aug/12 2nd
Catsjit 21/Aug/12 -
jonnie3430 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

While the large concentration of numpties on this route means less everywhere else, you should do as much as possible to avoid them. We should have climbed the Deant the night before, then bivvied (either Salle a Manger or behind you when you leave the snow for the rocks on the way up,) then did the Rochefort Arete in the. There would have been much less angst from people climbing on top of each other and potentially last lift missing queues for the abseil on top (last lift is 5.) It is sunny from early afternoon so would be nice and warm in the late afternoon too.

with Carol
Carol Goodall 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Climbed traditional way without using the fixed ropes. Very busy with others on the ropes. Better to do in the evening.

caradoc 11/Aug/12 AltLd

Despite the fixed ropes which turns the climbing into something from an adventure playground and the crowds this is a peak out of your dreams. The most airy summit I have ever been on. Tip- on the section up to the Salle look for cairns on the right. Avoid the loose ground on the left, it looks like the path but isn't.

with john b
Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
James_L88 16/Jul/12 -

Did after the traverse of the Rochefort Ridge in a long day. 8 abseils to finish.

with Badger
jon_ridley 09/Jul/12 Lead O/S

without fixed rope NOTE: Watch out for the groove during the second or third abseil which will jam your ropes if you don't take care to avoid it. Several parties around us had this problem.

Emily Cropton 09/Jul/12 2nd
mattfarr 04/Jul/12 2nd
with Al BMG
Hidden 23/Jun/12 -
Climbslikeaduck ?/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Got stuck behind to idiots. Brilliant route though.

with Tim
gowla 29/Aug/11 AltLd
with adam booth
Hidden 24/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Elsier 16/Aug/11 AltLd

Combined with Aiguille de Rochefort West Ridge, long day out!

with Amy
coombsy 12/Aug/11 AltLd

Amazing route. Few other parties on it and a real cold wind so ended up using a combination of fixed ropes and climbing to speed things up. Could do with some better gloves to climb in in the cold! Great to do it with my mate Rich. Got back to Helbronner just as the weather, cloud and snow came in. Phew. A memorable day.

with Rich G
Hidden 12/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 11/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 11/Aug/11 AltLd
minch ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/11 AltLd dnf
edmund94 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Done from the Torino Hut after the Aguille de Rochefort Ridge. Long wait due to congestion on ascent and at the ab station meant we missed the last lift down. Had to assist a British guide who got lost during the descent.

JonBrown 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome windy climb, epic day, chased back to the Midi by thunderstorms after a night in the Torino. Soaked through.

marcushorgan 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Calum Cuthill
Sophie Nunn 12/Jul/11 Lead dnf
with Olga
Monkey_Alan 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Walked in from the Col du Midi. Had packed rock shoes with the aim of not using the fixed ropes, but it was too cold to try and grip the rock. Met up with groups coming from the Torino hut and got to the top without issue. We then decided to wait for the rest of our party with the other rope so we could make the longer abs for descent. After a short while, a pair of british climbers appeared and told us they had turned back, and we could ab down with them (Thanks guys!). Unfortunately this left us in a queue for the ab station as a previous party was having difficulty. We eventually got down with no chance of getting back to the Midi station for the last lift, and decided to bail to the Torino. The forecast for the next day was poor, so we made an early start (despite thunderstorms over Italy) and just caught the first lift down after hauling the remains of the camp in a survival bag from the col to the station. Phew!

ferdia 11/Jul/11 AltLd β

rope pulling fun!

with Hertha Taverner-Wood
Hidden 27/Jun/11 2nd O/S
goatee 25/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/10 AltLd
stuart34 21/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Moved together and downclimbed route due to busy ab station - awful route due to conjestion.

with Kim Ladiges
Vincej 11/Aug/10 2nd
with Paolo Intrepido
Hidden ?/Aug/10 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
Hidden 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Coops_13 21/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Remi
Hidden 16/Jul/10 -
Jonny M 14/Jul/10 Lead dnf
GiveHerHelen 14/Jul/10 2nd dnf
Cardi 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S

After Rochefort arete, Mike and Clay on seperate rope clipping our gear. Started route at 10.30am. Hood was buzzing with electricity on subsidiary summit. Swiss guides refused to let us abseil before all of their friends and clients. Mighty crash 5 mins after getting off last abseil where a lightning bolt hit the Dent 2/3 of the way up. Mike and I felt the electric shock. A frightening 2 hour descent in storm conditions to the Torino. A very sizeable epic.

with Mike Wild
mark_chal 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Epic with the lightning and annoying guides

Clay C 10/Jul/10 AltLd
with Mark
CarolineH 28/Jun/10 -
with Dave
Bristoldave 28/Jun/10 Lead

Following from the arete du rochefort

Hidden ?/Jun/10 AltLd
smason ??/2010 AltLd O/S
milkyjoe 13/Sep/09 AltLd dnf

Got to the start of the rock climbing and turned round because of the cold. (Jim-get some gloves you can climb in!) Still it felt f*ing great to be doing something alpine though, 3 1/2 months after leaving hospital.

with jim b
Hidden 01/Sep/09 AltLd
BALD EAGLE 27/Aug/09 2nd
with Martin Power
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
SWalls 20/Jul/09 -
Hidden 20/Jul/09 AltLd
stevepotter 16/Jul/09 AltLd
with ken
BorisVBlade 01/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd
Stuart Johnston ?/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/09 -
heist182 ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Jamie Tattersall; Wendy Couch
andybuckley ?/Sep/08 -

Had the mountain to ourselves. Wasted a bit of time on the walk-in,and I didn't particularly enjoy the fixed ropes: would feel safer doing it properly! Back just in time to catch the last Torino telepherique of the whole season!

with Tom Whipple
dmorgan27 03/Aug/08 Lead
with Terryl
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd
Guy Wilson ?/Aug/08 -
with Dave Chapman, Phil Emmott
HIGHTOWER 28/Jul/08 AltLd dnf
with Mike (Leuchers)
gordon henderson 28/Jul/08 AltLd dnf
with MRT
Stuart Johnston 09/Jul/08 AltLd
Daniel Wicks 09/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
robertporter ?/Jul/08 -
cat22 ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Jane B
Hidden ?/Aug/07 AltLd
Nicos 16/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/07 AltLd
Joubert ?/Jul/07 -
featuresforfeet ?/Sep/06 AltLd

with Steve
georgeevans88 ?/Jul/06 AltLd
with Pete
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd
shaun walby ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

First on the route and first to the summit july 06, bloody cold to start with but what a position awesome exposure.

with Kev Groome
Joubert ?/Jul/06 -
Theeni ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Matt Dalby
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd dnf
jam_rich ?/Aug/05 -
Wil Treasure ?/Aug/04 -
with AdamW
Ed Saint ?/Jul/04 -
andyinglis ?/Jun/04 -

ross, neil adams and tom dunstan

Ross Barnes ?/Jun/04 -
with Neil A, Andy I, Tom D
Neil Adams ??/2004 -
with Andy I, Tom D & Ross B
Paul-Michael 08/Aug/03 Lead O/S

Bivouacked at the salle a manger, climbed in stickys, 2 ½ hrs.

with Paul Irvin
David Horwood 23/Jun/03 -
Hidden 17/Aug/02 -
Hidden ?/Aug/02 AltLd dnf
Dom Goodwin ?/Aug/01 2nd

Without the fixed ropes. The crux move up the chimney is desperate, far harder than any of the other moves on the route (mostly III and IV).

with Peter, Scott
Mark Stevenson 30/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
with Tim Rook
Dave Bond ?/Jul/01 -
with john leyland
Hidden 25/Aug/00 2nd
Celia Watson 25/Aug/00 Lead
Conan ?/Aug/97 -

Great morning climb with a sad end when another climber fell off and died next to my rucksack.

with Tony Chaplin
Michael ?/Aug/96 -
roncaves 21/Jul/95 AltLd
with James Thomas
Richard Weller 18/Aug/93 -
with Simon Currin
Daniel Wrightson ??/1993 AltLd O/S
with Andrea Tafi
pingora 03/Aug/89 -
pauldrew ?/Jul/89 AltLd

Climbed without using fixed ropes, Lisa waited at foot of rock. Missed last cable car down so walked all the way down to Courmayer - massive long descent and not recommended.

with Lisa Cox, Paul Glossop
Nigel Coe ?/Jul/79 AltLd
with John Walmsley
Bolt Phobia ?/Jul/78 AltLd

A fine climb without using the fixed ropes.

with Nicole, Kit Spencer
jon ?/Jul/76 Lead
with Pete, Lew, Elaine
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High D-
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