520m. of classic wet rock, waterfalls, blank walls and a hair raising descent

Ticklists: Classic Rock, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray, Type 2 Fun, The Great Gumclub Ticklist.

Hidden ??/2017 -
Tightsgirl 16/Sep/16 2nd

What a great day! Dry weather but had rained the night before. Getting into the gully, we abbed off a tree just below where the path flattens out for a moment which was more pleasant than scrambling down steep heather and trees. Left the car at 11am, back at the car at 9pm. Got completely wet through climbing IN a waterfall on what we think is the red chimney pitch. Be prepared for every pitch to feel chossy, wet and vegetated, but to be climbable and fun! Guide book is confusing, put it down and just keep looking for the line of least resistance. We felt the crux was getting past a big chockstone.

with Duncan Bell, Ed Luke
beds74 04/Jun/16 AltLd

The dreaded Clachaig...after years of waiting for dry conditions it finally happened...tip...do it in the driest weather possible! The 2 guys who backed off on pitch 1 didn't inspire us with confidence...the 1st wet waterfall pitch you get to isn't mentioned-it's desperate! The 2nd one you get to is even harder!!...as my colleague said...throw the guide away and just carry on up. Wouldn't do it again, but a strong team and a balls out approach is needed as every pitch is trying to finish you off! Glad I got it done.

with Peter Metcalfe
Peter Metcalfe 04/Jun/16 AltLd

A totally ungradeable climb, if you can call it that. Plenty of excitement (including what we agreed was the crux) encapsulated in the SMC's innocuous statement: "The route is obvious until the Great Cave at 150m". No idea where the Red Chimney pitch was but suspect it might have been the vile-looking slippery, unprotectable slot that we avoided via a precarious traverse on the left. Loads more, undescribed, climbing above that. Pitch lengths, count? Absolutely no idea. Throw the guide away and follow your nose. Great fun on a warm day. Take midge repellent!

with Paul Beds
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
mjackson 15/Jun/15 -
Graham Westbrook 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Sit start. Loads of tricky pitches before the great cave pitch. Loose rock, wet, but a good day out.

Antoine1 ??/2015 -
Rampikino 24/Jul/14 Lead

20ish pitches. Not so much a classic as trench warfare. The dry temperatures helped but this was still an exercise in heather bashing and soggy feet as well as the never-ending question of whether it will be over soon. Far too much thrashing through undergrowth and dubious ledge shuffling. At times the route is just plain dangerous. Some occasional good pitches - Great Cave, Slab, Jericho, but an awful lot more of scrappy nonsense.

with Cat
David_Gledson 22/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led great cave, jericho wall and red chimney.

with Gary
Hidden ??/2014 -
alexmcmillan 28/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Quite the adventure. Something like 14-15 hours on route in a group of 7. Some proper wet and crumbly pitches and the dark may not have been the most pleasant at the time, but it was a great day out nonetheless. On descending the ridge, lights below and stars above made for quite a surreal experience...

Fergus Cuthill 28/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Quality day out, Climbed as a group of 7 resulting in a very long day.

with Bella, Max, David, Alex McMillan, Marsh, Jamie
MarshF 28/Sep/13 AltLd

Sit Start, 14 hours. Full on adventure climbing.

with Jamie, Bella, David, Fergus, Max Scherer, alexmcmillan
BellaBooo 28/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
TheAndyBarker ??/2013 -
captain ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
check ??/2012 -
goadventure1 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Roch 23/Apr/11 -

Gordon, Will & Dobbo. Retreated after 2 pitches in the face of overwhelming quantities of slippy rock and waterfalls.

with MRT
sgl0jd ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Captain Solo 20/Jun/10 Solo

I'd give it 1 star for the history involved but as a climb its disappointing. The Chasm is a better day out by far.

jack_eadie 15/Jun/10 AltLd
mikemartin 15/Jun/10 AltLd

A great little adventure, we did it in 4 hours car to car, mostly solo which made for some exciting moments. I lost a number 8 rock on the first pitch but managed to retrieve a number 4 wallnut that I placed this time two years ago! It was also interesting to notice the state of the tat and krab we abbed off last time, for two years in the gully it still looked better than some stuff I've abbed off in the past, which was a touch worrying.

jimorothy 05/Jun/10 Lead

Allan Austin's description in Classic Rock says it all - desperate/lethal/loose - dislodged car-sized boulder. Idiots only need apply! 2nd attempt. From bottom (skipping this as new SMC guide suggests is clearly missing half the climb, no looser here than the rest of the beast and it contains the crux!). 9hrs, topped out in dark. Crux = waterfall about 4 pitches before the Great Cave Pitch (see 'Spot the Climber' photo from 1st attempt). Occasional cool pitches = technical Red Wall, Red Chimney, unprotected Slab Wall (CR's crux), Jerico Wall and a few others are fantastic, most of it is horrendous though; so bad I hardly noticed being eaten alive by midges!

with Rachel Crolla
Hidden 02/May/10 AltLd dnf
Neil Mackenzie 02/May/10 AltLd dnf
with jamsey
Hidden ??/2010 -
BigHell ?/Sep/09 -
Steven Andrews 07/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Went right from the bottom, took 7 hours. Pitches up to the great cave pitch are vegitated and chanllenging but doable. Led the Great Cave Pitch.....fantastic. Lots more above also with some of the hardeds pitches comming towards the top.

with Fred Lyon
suess 01/Jun/09 Lead
ig248 ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Fabian Jakubczik
mikemartin ?/Jul/08 AltLd dnf

Backed off before Jericho wall, too much water the gully.

Simon Caldwell 25/May/08 Lead O/S

Completely sheltered from the strong NE wind, on a cloud-free Bank Holiday weekend, and we had the route to ourselves. Super stuff, mostly poorly protected VDiff with a couple of harder pitches (luckily with some gear). Ignore the Crocket guide which says there are 8 pitches, there are 15 or 16 (I lost count)!

with Carmen
Major_Steve ?/Nov/07 2nd

Amazing climb. Very wet and very cold in November! Took a while to do it and almost missed last call at the inn! But an unbelievable time.

with Alex Carberry, Tanis Godwin
Callum T ?/Nov/07 AltLd
jonnie3430 13/Oct/07 AltLd
tumbling wizard ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Solo O/S
timmy-ts ??/2004 -
Hidden 14/May/03 TR
Hidden 18/Apr/03 AltLd
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Chad123 ??/2000 -
Mickdenali ??/1999 AltLd
with Bob Macleod
mjw 22/Aug/98 AltLd dnf

Gave up after two or three pitches.

with MB
mike fenwick ??/1998 AltLd
with Ben Pearce
five ?/Jun/97 AltLd dnf
with SB
johnkeith ?/Sep/96 Solo O/S

Great day out. Took one wrong turn at 100 ft wall and had to lower myself down. Otherwise fine.

Yourlead 30/Jun/95 AltLd
with Graham Penny
Hidden 01/Aug/94 -
Hidden ?/Jun/93 AltLd
AC1 ?/Sep/90 -
with Jonny Brown
brianrunner ?/May/90 AltLd

A fab day out and done during a drought which I recommend.

with John Thomson
uphillnow ??/1990 -
phardman ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
Iain Thow 15/Dec/88 Lead

Very wet but perversely fun

with Tim Whittaker
Hidden ?/Dec/88 AltLd
Hidden 20/May/87 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/86 AltLd
Nigel Bond 03/Jun/86 Lead
rogerskews 03/Jun/86 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/85 AltLd
Hidden 10/Aug/83 AltLd
Hidden 16/Feb/80 AltLd
arduff ??/1980 AltLd
with EUMC pals
arduff ??/1980 AltLd

An outing

with Chris Brown
Mark Kemball 13/Sep/79 AltLd
with Sarah Bridge
neil3965 ?/May/78 AltLd
with Gordon Stewart
Rob Davies 14/Mar/78 AltLd dnf

There was a great deal of water coming down and we were eventually stopped high up at Red Chimney where all the water was cascading into a bergschrund. Escaped by traversing walls with help from a peg

with John Pethica
neil3965 ?/Sep/77 Lead
with Julie Blythe
Colin Matheson ?/Sep/76 AltLd
with Brown
auldscotal ??/1975 AltLd O/S
with Ben Cooper?
Derek Ryden ?/Mar/74 Lead O/S

Verglas on upper pitches

with Alan Nuttall
Peter Main 14/Sep/71 2nd
with Glencoe Mountaineering School
Hidden 12/Aug/70 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/69 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/68 AltLd
Chris Craggs ??/1968 -
uphillnow ?/May/65 Solo

Bivied at base and started first light. With Marshal Reeves and Charlie Tanner. Marshall ahead and Charlie and I trailing behind

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