520m. of classic wet rock, waterfalls, blank walls and a hair raising descent

Ticklists

Classic Rock, Scottish Classic Rock, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray, Type 2 Fun, The Great Gumclub Ticklist, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, Lochaber Esoterica

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Samuel Wainwright 28 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Mike
with Mike
prcleary 27 Jul, 2018 -
Roberttaylor 19 Jul, 2018 - Nowhere near as fun as the chasm. Don't do the 'integrale', drop in from the side like the guidebook recommends.
Nowhere near as fun as the chasm. Don't do the 'integrale', drop in from the side like the guidebook recommends.
Hidden 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Arty 4 Jul, 2018 Lead mmm that was interesting. Back to the car at midnight, at least it wasn't [quite] dark in July so no torch required. Forgot description, it would have been nice to read/ follow progress. Easy descent. Take a full rack inc a small cam. Full marks as adventure, no midges, 10 ticks between us probably on descent
with Carmel
mmm that was interesting. Back to the car at midnight, at least it wasn't [quite] dark in July so no torch required. Forgot description, it would have been nice to read/ follow progress. Easy descent. Take a full rack inc a small cam. Full marks as adventure, no midges, 10 ticks between us probably on descent
with Carmel
Davy Gunn ??, 2018 - Done several times and soloed in 60 mins
Done several times and soloed in 60 mins
mjw ??, 2018 AltLd dnf
Davy Gunn ??, 2018 -
Hidden 14 Jul, 2017 -
Hidden 4 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
DanJennings 5 May, 2017 2nd Bloody brilliant... except the bits that weren't... they fell off.
Bloody brilliant... except the bits that weren't... they fell off.
graceefisher 5 May, 2017 AltLd
omaskrey 5 May, 2017 AltLd Take a sense of humour, plenty of food, dry sacks and a head torch. Watch out for loose rock, and follow the route of least resistance, which might be wet.
Take a sense of humour, plenty of food, dry sacks and a head torch. Watch out for loose rock, and follow the route of least resistance, which might be wet.
JonnyDry 5 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2017 AltLd
Hazel Morgan 5 May, 2017 AltLd O/S An absolutely epic end to a week of fantastic weather, couldn't have asked for better conditions! Best enjoyed by getting involved with the waterfall, this felt more like an expedition than a consistent climb as we scrambled as much as possible, I'd estimate that it took about 7hrs from start to summit. The scramble out was unnerving and we avoided the dodgy descent path, took the longer route down to the road and back past the hostels to the pub just in time for chips. Group of 9 in total although we pulled ahead of the others, later found out a rope was severed by rockfall, resulting in an extended stay out past midnight.
An absolutely epic end to a week of fantastic weather, couldn't have asked for better conditions! Best enjoyed by getting involved with the waterfall, this felt more like an expedition than a consistent climb as we scrambled as much as possible, I'd estimate that it took about 7hrs from start to summit. The scramble out was unnerving and we avoided the dodgy descent path, took the longer route down to the road and back past the hostels to the pub just in time for chips. Group of 9 in total although we pulled ahead of the others, later found out a rope was severed by rockfall, resulting in an extended stay out past midnight.
JoeCoxson 5 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Long day! Entered gully as a team of nine, conditions couldn't have been better, but still took 6/7 hours on route. Hazel, Dan and I plowed ahead in good form, and made it up and down to the pub for celebratory food and drink, despite the late start. The others weren't so lucky, so Olly J and I sped our way back up the descent path to meet the rather cold but highly spirited survivors, making it back down in the Glen for not long after midnight. The week wouldn't have been the same without a bit of an epic.
Long day! Entered gully as a team of nine, conditions couldn't have been better, but still took 6/7 hours on route. Hazel, Dan and I plowed ahead in good form, and made it up and down to the pub for celebratory food and drink, despite the late start. The others weren't so lucky, so Olly J and I sped our way back up the descent path to meet the rather cold but highly spirited survivors, making it back down in the Glen for not long after midnight. The week wouldn't have been the same without a bit of an epic.
Wendy Watthews 5 May, 2017 AltLd O/S A very long and tiring day. The waterfall chimney pitch was the most fun, it looked horrible from below but was just amazing. Loose rock, damp pitches and a little on the spot route finding all added to the adventure but meant a long day. Topped out at 10:30 ish and everyone was back down to the waiting car and Wallace by 1am. Amiee provided amazing psych to get me through the last few leads.
with Amiee, DanJennings, Hazel M, Ollie, JonnyDry, JoeCoxson, Fish, Mather
A very long and tiring day. The waterfall chimney pitch was the most fun, it looked horrible from below but was just amazing. Loose rock, damp pitches and a little on the spot route finding all added to the adventure but meant a long day. Topped out at 10:30 ish and everyone was back down to the waiting car and Wallace by 1am. Amiee provided amazing psych to get me through the last few leads.
with Amiee, DanJennings, Hazel M, Ollie, JonnyDry, JoeCoxson, Fish, Mather
Hidden ??, 2017 -
HannahFrancis 16 Sep, 2016 2nd What a great day! Dry weather but had rained the night before. Getting into the gully, we abbed off a tree just below where the path flattens out for a moment which was more pleasant than scrambling down steep heather and trees. Left the car at 11am, back at the car at 9pm. Got completely wet through climbing IN a waterfall on what we think is the red chimney pitch. Be prepared for every pitch to feel chossy, wet and vegetated, but to be climbable and fun! Guide book is confusing, put it down and just keep looking for the line of least resistance. We felt the crux was getting past a big chockstone.
with Duncan Bell, Ed Luke
What a great day! Dry weather but had rained the night before. Getting into the gully, we abbed off a tree just below where the path flattens out for a moment which was more pleasant than scrambling down steep heather and trees. Left the car at 11am, back at the car at 9pm. Got completely wet through climbing IN a waterfall on what we think is the red chimney pitch. Be prepared for every pitch to feel chossy, wet and vegetated, but to be climbable and fun! Guide book is confusing, put it down and just keep looking for the line of least resistance. We felt the crux was getting past a big chockstone.
with Duncan Bell, Ed Luke
beds74 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd The dreaded Clachaig...after years of waiting for dry conditions it finally happened...tip...do it in the driest weather possible! The 2 guys who backed off on pitch 1 didn't inspire us with confidence...the 1st wet waterfall pitch you get to isn't mentioned-it's desperate! The 2nd one you get to is even harder!!...as my colleague said...throw the guide away and just carry on up. Wouldn't do it again, but a strong team and a balls out approach is needed as every pitch is trying to finish you off! Glad I got it done.
with Peter Metcalfe
The dreaded Clachaig...after years of waiting for dry conditions it finally happened...tip...do it in the driest weather possible! The 2 guys who backed off on pitch 1 didn't inspire us with confidence...the 1st wet waterfall pitch you get to isn't mentioned-it's desperate! The 2nd one you get to is even harder!!...as my colleague said...throw the guide away and just carry on up. Wouldn't do it again, but a strong team and a balls out approach is needed as every pitch is trying to finish you off! Glad I got it done.
with Peter Metcalfe
Peter Metcalfe 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd A totally ungradeable climb, if you can call it that. Plenty of excitement (including what we agreed was the crux) encapsulated in the SMC's innocuous statement: "The route is obvious until the Great Cave at 150m". No idea where the Red Chimney pitch was but suspect it might have been the vile-looking slippery, unprotectable slot that we avoided via a precarious traverse on the left. Loads more, undescribed, climbing above that. Pitch lengths, count? Absolutely no idea. Throw the guide away and follow your nose. Great fun on a warm day. Take midge repellent!
with Paul Beds
A totally ungradeable climb, if you can call it that. Plenty of excitement (including what we agreed was the crux) encapsulated in the SMC's innocuous statement: "The route is obvious until the Great Cave at 150m". No idea where the Red Chimney pitch was but suspect it might have been the vile-looking slippery, unprotectable slot that we avoided via a precarious traverse on the left. Loads more, undescribed, climbing above that. Pitch lengths, count? Absolutely no idea. Throw the guide away and follow your nose. Great fun on a warm day. Take midge repellent!
with Paul Beds
mountain musher ??, 2016 AltLd
mjackson 15 Jun, 2015 -
Graham Westbrook 15 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Sit start. Loads of tricky pitches before the great cave pitch. Loose rock, wet, but a good day out.
Sit start. Loads of tricky pitches before the great cave pitch. Loose rock, wet, but a good day out.
mattkemp70 ?Jun, 2015 AltLd
with Sam
with Sam
Antoine1 ??, 2015 -
Rampikino 24 Jul, 2014 Lead 20ish pitches. Not so much a classic as trench warfare. The dry temperatures helped but this was still an exercise in heather bashing and soggy feet as well as the never-ending question of whether it will be over soon. Far too much thrashing through undergrowth and dubious ledge shuffling. At times the route is just plain dangerous. Some occasional good pitches - Great Cave, Slab, Jericho, but an awful lot more of scrappy nonsense.
with Cat
20ish pitches. Not so much a classic as trench warfare. The dry temperatures helped but this was still an exercise in heather bashing and soggy feet as well as the never-ending question of whether it will be over soon. Far too much thrashing through undergrowth and dubious ledge shuffling. At times the route is just plain dangerous. Some occasional good pitches - Great Cave, Slab, Jericho, but an awful lot more of scrappy nonsense.
with Cat
David_Gledson 22 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Led great cave, jericho wall and red chimney.
with Gary
Led great cave, jericho wall and red chimney.
with Gary
Hidden ??, 2014 -
alexmcmillan 28 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Quite the adventure. Something like 14-15 hours on route in a group of 7. Some proper wet and crumbly pitches and the dark may not have been the most pleasant at the time, but it was a great day out nonetheless. On descending the ridge, lights below and stars above made for quite a surreal experience...
Quite the adventure. Something like 14-15 hours on route in a group of 7. Some proper wet and crumbly pitches and the dark may not have been the most pleasant at the time, but it was a great day out nonetheless. On descending the ridge, lights below and stars above made for quite a surreal experience...
Fergus Cuthill 28 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Quality day out, Climbed as a group of 7 resulting in a very long day.
with Bella, Max, David, alexmcmillan, MarshF, JamieSparkes
Quality day out, Climbed as a group of 7 resulting in a very long day.
with Bella, Max, David, alexmcmillan, MarshF, JamieSparkes
MarshF 28 Sep, 2013 AltLd Sit Start, 14 hours. Full on adventure climbing.
with JamieSparkes, Bella, David, Fergus Cuthill, Max Scherer, alexmcmillan
Sit Start, 14 hours. Full on adventure climbing.
with JamieSparkes, Bella, David, Fergus Cuthill, Max Scherer, alexmcmillan
BellaBooo 28 Sep, 2013 2nd
Hidden 28 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
TheAndyBarker ??, 2013 -
captain ??, 2013 -
andybirtwistle ??, 2013 -
check ??, 2012 -
goadventure1 ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Roch 23 Apr, 2011 - Gordon, Will & Dobbo. Retreated after 2 pitches in the face of overwhelming quantities of slippy rock and waterfalls.
with MRT
Gordon, Will & Dobbo. Retreated after 2 pitches in the face of overwhelming quantities of slippy rock and waterfalls.
with MRT
sgl0jd ??, 2011 -
pasbury ??, 2011 -
Captain Solo 20 Jun, 2010 Solo I'd give it 1 star for the history involved but as a climb its disappointing. The Chasm is a better day out by far.
I'd give it 1 star for the history involved but as a climb its disappointing. The Chasm is a better day out by far.
jack_eadie 15 Jun, 2010 AltLd
mikemartin 15 Jun, 2010 AltLd A great little adventure, we did it in 4 hours car to car, mostly solo which made for some exciting moments. I lost a number 8 rock on the first pitch but managed to retrieve a number 4 wallnut that I placed this time two years ago! It was also interesting to notice the state of the tat and krab we abbed off last time, for two years in the gully it still looked better than some stuff I've abbed off in the past, which was a touch worrying.
A great little adventure, we did it in 4 hours car to car, mostly solo which made for some exciting moments. I lost a number 8 rock on the first pitch but managed to retrieve a number 4 wallnut that I placed this time two years ago! It was also interesting to notice the state of the tat and krab we abbed off last time, for two years in the gully it still looked better than some stuff I've abbed off in the past, which was a touch worrying.
jimorothy 5 Jun, 2010 Lead Allan Austin's description in Classic Rock says it all - desperate/lethal/loose - dislodged car-sized boulder. Idiots only need apply! 2nd attempt. From bottom (skipping this as new SMC guide suggests is clearly missing half the climb, no looser here than the rest of the beast and it contains the crux!). 9hrs, topped out in dark. Crux = waterfall about 4 pitches before the Great Cave Pitch (see 'Spot the Climber' photo from 1st attempt). Occasional cool pitches = technical Red Wall, Red Chimney, unprotected Slab Wall (CR's crux), Jerico Wall and a few others are fantastic, most of it is horrendous though; so bad I hardly noticed being eaten alive by midges!
with Rachel Crolla
Allan Austin's description in Classic Rock says it all - desperate/lethal/loose - dislodged car-sized boulder. Idiots only need apply! 2nd attempt. From bottom (skipping this as new SMC guide suggests is clearly missing half the climb, no looser here than the rest of the beast and it contains the crux!). 9hrs, topped out in dark. Crux = waterfall about 4 pitches before the Great Cave Pitch (see 'Spot the Climber' photo from 1st attempt). Occasional cool pitches = technical Red Wall, Red Chimney, unprotected Slab Wall (CR's crux), Jerico Wall and a few others are fantastic, most of it is horrendous though; so bad I hardly noticed being eaten alive by midges!
with Rachel Crolla
Hidden 2 May, 2010 AltLd dnf
Neil Mackenzie 2 May, 2010 AltLd dnf
with jamsey
with jamsey
Hidden ??, 2010 -
BigHell ?Sep, 2009 -
Steven Andrews 7 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S Went right from the bottom, took 7 hours. Pitches up to the great cave pitch are vegitated and chanllenging but doable. Led the Great Cave Pitch.....fantastic. Lots more above also with some of the hardeds pitches comming towards the top.
with Fred Lyon
Went right from the bottom, took 7 hours. Pitches up to the great cave pitch are vegitated and chanllenging but doable. Led the Great Cave Pitch.....fantastic. Lots more above also with some of the hardeds pitches comming towards the top.
with Fred Lyon
suess 1 Jun, 2009 Lead
ig248 ?Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Fabian Jakubczik
with Fabian Jakubczik
mikemartin ?Jul, 2008 AltLd dnf Backed off before Jericho wall, too much water the gully.
Backed off before Jericho wall, too much water the gully.
Simon Caldwell 25 May, 2008 Lead O/S Completely sheltered from the strong NE wind, on a cloud-free Bank Holiday weekend, and we had the route to ourselves. Super stuff, mostly poorly protected VDiff with a couple of harder pitches (luckily with some gear). Ignore the Crocket guide which says there are 8 pitches, there are 15 or 16 (I lost count)!
with Lemming
Completely sheltered from the strong NE wind, on a cloud-free Bank Holiday weekend, and we had the route to ourselves. Super stuff, mostly poorly protected VDiff with a couple of harder pitches (luckily with some gear). Ignore the Crocket guide which says there are 8 pitches, there are 15 or 16 (I lost count)!
with Lemming
steve.mullan ?Nov, 2007 2nd Amazing climb. Very wet and very cold in November! Took a while to do it and almost missed last call at the inn! But an unbelievable time.
with Alex Carberry, Tanis Godwin
Amazing climb. Very wet and very cold in November! Took a while to do it and almost missed last call at the inn! But an unbelievable time.
with Alex Carberry, Tanis Godwin
Callum T ?Nov, 2007 AltLd
jonnie3430 13 Oct, 2007 AltLd
tumbling wizard ??, 2007 Lead
Hidden ??, 2006 Solo O/S
timmy-ts ??, 2004 -
Hidden 14 May, 2003 TR
Hidden 18 Apr, 2003 AltLd
mark turnbull ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Chad123 ??, 2000 -
Mickdenali ??, 1999 AltLd
with Bob Macleod
with Bob Macleod
Hidden ??, 1998 AltLd
five ?Jun, 1997 AltLd dnf
with SB
with SB
johnkeith ?Sep, 1996 Solo O/S Great day out. Took one wrong turn at 100 ft wall and had to lower myself down. Otherwise fine.
Great day out. Took one wrong turn at 100 ft wall and had to lower myself down. Otherwise fine.
Yourlead 30 Jun, 1995 AltLd
with Graham Penny
with Graham Penny
Iain Brown 15 Jun, 1995 -
with Phil
with Phil
roncaves 14 Apr, 1995 AltLd
with James Thomas
with James Thomas
pauldrew ??, 1995 - Some time mid nineties
with Emma Hart
Some time mid nineties
with Emma Hart
Hidden 1 Aug, 1994 -
Hidden ?Jun, 1993 AltLd
GuyC 24 May, 1992 AltLd O/S Drought conditions and dangerous rock fall from scree at top. Found out after there had been a fatality the previous day.
with Jon Bell, Clare
Drought conditions and dangerous rock fall from scree at top. Found out after there had been a fatality the previous day.
with Jon Bell, Clare
Hidden ?Sep, 1990 -
brianrunner ?May, 1990 AltLd A fab day out and done during a drought which I recommend.
with John Thomson
A fab day out and done during a drought which I recommend.
with John Thomson
uphillnow ??, 1990 Solo from road solo up the gulley then jogged along ridge, hitched back to start and a pint. Dry
with Andrew (Pog) Horn
from road solo up the gulley then jogged along ridge, hitched back to start and a pint. Dry
with Andrew (Pog) Horn
mike mo ??, 1990 - A E Ridge after
A E Ridge after
phardman ??, 1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??, 1990 -
Iain Thow 15 Dec, 1988 Lead Very wet but perversely fun
with Tim Whittaker
Very wet but perversely fun
with Tim Whittaker
Hidden ?Dec, 1988 AltLd
Hidden 20 May, 1987 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 1986 AltLd
Nigel Bond 3 Jun, 1986 Lead
rogerskews 3 Jun, 1986 AltLd
Hidden ?May, 1985 AltLd
Hidden 10 Aug, 1983 AltLd
Basemetal 10 Jun, 1980 AltLd
Hidden 16 Feb, 1980 AltLd
arduff ??, 1980 AltLd
with EUMC pals
with EUMC pals
arduff ??, 1980 AltLd An outing
with Chris Brown
An outing
with Chris Brown
Mark Kemball 13 Sep, 1979 AltLd
with Sarah Bridge
with Sarah Bridge
neil3965 ?May, 1978 AltLd
with Gordon Stewart
with Gordon Stewart
Rob Davies 14 Mar, 1978 AltLd dnf There was a great deal of water coming down and we were eventually stopped high up at Red Chimney where all the water was cascading into a bergschrund. Escaped by traversing walls with help from a peg
with John Pethica
There was a great deal of water coming down and we were eventually stopped high up at Red Chimney where all the water was cascading into a bergschrund. Escaped by traversing walls with help from a peg
with John Pethica
neil3965 ?Sep, 1977 Lead
with Julie Blythe
with Julie Blythe
Colin Matheson ?Sep, 1976 AltLd
with Brown
with Brown
auldscotal ??, 1975 AltLd O/S
with Ben Cooper?
with Ben Cooper?
Derek Ryden ?Mar, 1974 Lead O/S Verglas on upper pitches
with Alan Nuttall
Verglas on upper pitches
with Alan Nuttall
Peter Main 14 Sep, 1971 2nd
with Glencoe Mountaineering School
with Glencoe Mountaineering School
Hidden 12 Aug, 1970 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 1969 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 1968 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1968 -
uphillnow ?May, 1965 - Bivied at base and started first light. With Marshal Reeves and Charlie Tanner. Marshall ahead and Charlie and I trailing behind. May have used the rope on one pitch
with Marshal Reeves, charlie Tanner
Bivied at base and started first light. With Marshal Reeves and Charlie Tanner. Marshall ahead and Charlie and I trailing behind. May have used the rope on one pitch
with Marshal Reeves, charlie Tanner
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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set