UKC

Restricted Access

There a two sectors, the left-hand (northern) area is approached by a 20 m abseil. The right hand section can be reached by scrambling.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

All routes are restricted in nesting season
25m. Right out on the end of the headland there is a sea-level cave with a hanging slab/wall above it. Start on the west side of the cave and take a rising traverse above the cave, following a crackline up to a good horizontal break. Head rightwards up the steeper wall above with good holds (some loose rock), then finish on the left-hand side of the top of the cliff. A brilliant line but with suspect rock - more traffic would improve it greatly!

Approach - from the beach at low tide scramble out along the base of the headland until you reach the first big gap in the headland. Follow the next section of the headland this time on the west side until awkward down climbs lead to a big corner with a variety of easy routes. Go just past this corner to find the cave.

FA. Louis Hudson, Declan L M 13/Sep/2015.

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Route of Interest
Blue Sky

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Saddle Head)

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