UKC

Restricted Access

The landowners have expressed legitimate safety concerns with climbing in the gorge. The site contains a popular public road and the potential for passers-by to be hit by falling/dislodged rock is obvious. If you wish to climb or scramble in the pass, BMC advice is to limit visits to either very early or late in the day, midweek.

25m. Climb to and up the groove on the left of the face. Take the overhang on the right to a ledge. Up to a pothole. Climb the shallow groove to the a loose finish.

K Myhill, D Kichen Jan/1969.

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Route of Interest
Whillans' Pendulum/Black Magic

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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