UKC

Restricted Access

The landowners have expressed legitimate safety concerns with climbing in the gorge. The site contains a popular public road and the potential for passers-by to be hit by falling/dislodged rock is obvious. If you wish to climb or scramble in the pass, BMC advice is to limit visits to either very early or late in the day, midweek.

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Last update: 21/12/2022  

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27m. Up the easy wall to the left of the caves. Traverse right on the lip of the lower cave to gain the corner. Climb the corner past the upper cave to exit on the right.
Belay well back, hidden peg of unknown vintage in small outcrop of rock.
Or more sensibly, use the lower off on Checkpoint Charlie

T Proctor, K Myhill 1969.

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Route of Interest
Whillans' Pendulum/Black Magic

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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