Rockfax Description
A fantastic route which overcomes the overhangs of the lower face before continuing up a series of wide well-protected cracks.
Start as for the bolted Variante Franceschi, on a boulder directly below a crack. Bolted in the lower section.
1) VI+, 30m. Climb the crack to the roof, pull through this then continue to a higher, larger roof. Climb this direct on good holds then follow the crack with easier climbing to a third overhang. Pull through this to the stance.
2) V+, 30m. Continue following the corner-crack above. Climb the continuation chimney to a ledge on the left.
3) IV+, 50m. Climb direct from the belay in a crack, climb a bulge then continue up easier cracks to the left to a good stance. From here either join the descent from the summit, or continue easily for 30m to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
3 Pitch trad route - 6b,5+,4+

Cole Robertson ?/Jun/17 Lead O/S
williap 29/Sep/16 2nd
scottcoates 29/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Did first pitch as last route, was expecting 6a sport but was surprised to find it more strenuous, felt more towards 6c, great route though.

with williap
dan gibson 11/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Katerina petkova
farmus21 14/Jul/16 AltLd
with samrad
samrad 14/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with james G
james.slater 06/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
james1978 26/Sep/15 Lead dog

Nails first pitch. Tough 6b+ at least.

tatz45 10/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Oli led first crux pitch through the overhangs, then followed 2 crappy pitches of dirty loose cracks and vegetation, nobody climbs the top pitches! 3* my arse! First pitch was good though!

Hidden 10/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Kevster 11/Jul/15 Lead dog

Failed on the first pitch, defo 6c sport if it was anywhere else. However, I then ran the second pitch in with the first. This makes an outstanding 55m stamina fest of the 2nd pitch. E1/2? Spent at the end of it.

whistler 13/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

First pitch fully bolted. Pretty strenuous crux, felt more like 6c than a 6b.

with Mark Littlewood
Hidden 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Nicos 19/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Neil Adams ?/Jun/04 AltLd
andyinglis ?/Jun/04 AltLd
simon kimber ?/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
with Paul Burren
whispering nic ??/2001 Lead
with The Wife
Hidden 02/Jul/95 Lead
Martin Bennett 05/Aug/74 -
with Fran
jcw 14/Aug/67 -

We all made a right hash of the crux pitch, then done in artificial and made famous by a photo of R├ębuffat on it

with Barbara James, Ron James
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High VII-
Mid VII-
Low VII-
High VI+
Mid VI+
Low VI+
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set