Rockfax Description
A quirky route with a fully bolted first pitch through the overhangs which turns into a traditional route as it continues up a series of wide well-protected cracks to the summit.
Start as for the bolted Variante Franceschi, on a boulder directly below a crack. Bolted in the lower section.
1) 6b+, 30m. Climb the crack to the roof, pull through this then continue to a higher, larger roof. Climb this direct on good holds then follow the crack with easier climbing to a third overhang. Pull through this to the stance.
2) V+, 30m. Continue following the corner-crack above. Climb the continuation chimney to a ledge on the left.
3) IV+, 50m. Climb direct from the belay in a crack, climb a bulge then continue up easier cracks to the left to a good stance. From here either join the descent from the summit, or continue easily for 30m to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
3 Pitch trad route - 6b,5+,4+

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Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
bowlingj 16 Sep, 2018 2nd
Matt Amos 16 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
countchalkula ?Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
williap 29 Sep, 2016 2nd
Hidden 29 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
dan gibson 11 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Katerina petkova
with Katerina petkova
farmus21 14 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with samrad
with samrad
samrad 14 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with james G
with james G
james.slater 6 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
james1978 26 Sep, 2015 Lead dog Nails first pitch. Tough 6b+ at least.
Nails first pitch. Tough 6b+ at least.
PTatts 10 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Oli led first crux pitch through the overhangs, then followed 2 crappy pitches of dirty loose cracks and vegetation, nobody climbs the top pitches! 3* my arse! First pitch was good though!
with Oli
Oli led first crux pitch through the overhangs, then followed 2 crappy pitches of dirty loose cracks and vegetation, nobody climbs the top pitches! 3* my arse! First pitch was good though!
with Oli
Hidden 10 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Paul Eckton 11 Jul, 2015 Lead
with Kevster
with Kevster
Kevster 11 Jul, 2015 Lead dog Failed on the first pitch, defo 6c sport if it was anywhere else. However, I then ran the second pitch in with the first. This makes an outstanding 55m stamina fest of the 2nd pitch. E1/2? Spent at the end of it.
Failed on the first pitch, defo 6c sport if it was anywhere else. However, I then ran the second pitch in with the first. This makes an outstanding 55m stamina fest of the 2nd pitch. E1/2? Spent at the end of it.
whistler 13 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S First pitch fully bolted. Pretty strenuous crux, felt more like 6c than a 6b.
with Mark Littlewood
First pitch fully bolted. Pretty strenuous crux, felt more like 6c than a 6b.
with Mark Littlewood
Hidden 22 Aug, 2010 Lead dnf
Neil Adams ?Jun, 2004 AltLd
andyinglis ?Jun, 2004 AltLd
simon kimber ?Sep, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Paul Burren
with Paul Burren
whispering nic ??, 2001 Lead
with The Wife
with The Wife
Hidden 2 Jul, 1995 Lead
jcw 14 Aug, 1967 - We all made a right hash of the crux pitch, then done in artificial and made famous by a photo of R├ębuffat on it
with Barbara James, Ron James
We all made a right hash of the crux pitch, then done in artificial and made famous by a photo of R├ębuffat on it
with Barbara James, Ron James
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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set