UKC

Rockfax Description
The classic itinerary of Torre Grande. A justifiably popular route with an outstanding traverse on the 3rd pitch. The 1st pitch is very polished which can make it feel difficult for the grade.
Start at a pronounced corner 5m left of the tower's arete.

1) V+, 40m. Climb the polished wall direct taking a slight deviation at 10m round a bulge. Follow the wall direct for another 15m until you reach an equipped belay on a large ledge.
2) IV+, 35m. Step right heading for a corner. Climb the short corner with interest, exiting left at the top. Follow shattered rock traversing left underneath a series of overhangs on easy ground for 20m (peg up high to protect second) until a bolted stance is reached.
3) IV+, 35m. Climb the rising flake diagonally leftwards for 5m. Traverse left for another 5m directly under the large roof, exposed but on good holds, until a short chimney is reached. Climb the chimney exiting to the left onto a large ledge.
4) V, 45m. Leave the ledge on the left-hand side (the line of pegs leaving the right side is Direttissima Scoiattoli). Climb towards the bottom of the large corner on easy ground. Follow the corner feature for 40m before exiting on the left to a bolt belay. There is an intermediate belay halfway up the corner if you wish to split this section into two pitches.
5) IV+, 20m. The original finish follows the chimney just right of the belay, but this is loose. It is now common to climb leftwards before descending between the towers. For those who don't want to miss the summit experience, a better alternative is to follow the ledge left for 5m before climbing the wall direct. The way is marked by three bolts. Continue past these to reach easy ground and the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
6 Pitch trad route - 5,4,2,4+,5,4
Leads to the south summit of Torre Grande
Classic trad route of the towers, with the polish to prove it. Only bolt is found on the very last pitch, so more like VS 5a than F5.

Angelo and Guiseppe Dimai 29/Jun/1927

Ticklists: NTU Climbing - Van Club, Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.


ClimberDateStyle
youwillfindjimbo 10/Oct/17 AltLd O/S
with Danny G
mop449 10/Oct/17 AltLd O/S

Took even pitches. P4 was superb to lead. P3 excellent. Not too badly polished. The 50m abseil is very intense!!

with Jimbo
Pete_Frost 09/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Very polished! Many pitch lengths are wrong in the Rockfax guide and their topo doesn't show all the belays. Not good for the route on the front cover of the book. The situations on the route are great, and the climbing isn't desperate, but because of the polish I wouldn't recommend it to a friend.

with Climbing Joe from Anglesey
Rooney90 04/Sep/17 AltLd
TheSingularity 04/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
with Emma
merlin138 23/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

As sacrilegious as this sounds, the only really good pitch is the flake/traverse pitch. Brilliant climbing, bold for the grade and lovely exposure. The rest is good, but nothing outstanding. Fun trip out none the less.

Alex Handley 23/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/17 AltLd
TeddyC 13/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

well good, pretty sure the rockfax decent is wrong

with dad
Jim Walton 08/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Felt like climbing on Peak District Limestone. Polished and loose in places, very entertaining and enjoyable route once you are down :-)

with Andy Barker
Andrew Barker 08/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Nice route. Descent descriptions were a little confusing.

with Jim
Hidden 04/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Abi Chard 31/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

First route in the Dolomites.

with Ian
TimKnight 07/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Great route; required a bit of hunting around to find the ab point from the summit finish (2-3m down and right looking out)

Joemanglerocks 07/Jul/17 AltLd
colin milton 26/Jun/17 AltLd

lead p1 & 3

with eric milton
beardy mike ??/2017 -
williap 29/Sep/16 AltLd
scottcoates 29/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with williap
Alex Eperon 22/Sep/16 AltLd
Moritz L 10/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Dan0Me 10/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Great route in awesome location

tunnah 04/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
CMoore 04/Sep/16 AltLd
with tunnah
tasp05 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Stu Fletcher, Dave Garrity
MrRiley 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Superb route, great fun, monster 50m free hanging ab into a chasm a great way to finish too. http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2016/09/dolomiti-super-summer/

Debbie Lee 14/Aug/16 AltLd

Great introductory route, very enjoyable.

FelixPeterken 08/Aug/16 AltLd
with AndrewP
AndrewP 08/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
stevethomas 08/Aug/16 Lead
with Heather
kelliroberts3 02/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Pete Rigby 02/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
PanzerHanzler 21/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Lynn Robin 21/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
evhall 21/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

First pitch a bit polished but certainly not too much - other pitches less so - great route about VS

with Tim Bray
PilarMartinez 17/Jul/16 AltLd
with juliano
Julesthe1st 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
rgd1977 14/Jul/16 Lead O/S
james.slater 06/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
cdpuk 04/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1, 2, 3. Descent is possible using just one 50m rope by abseiling down near the last pitch, then again to ledges.

RobScarisbrick 04/Jul/16 AltLd
with cdpuk
Hidden ?/Jul/16 Lead
Tim Harper 15/Jun/16 AltLd dnf

Completed first pitch but weather closed in and route was seeping so backed of

with Jack Poyner
masa-alpin 06/Sep/15 AltLd dnf

I lead P1, Patrick did P2, but then got stuck behind a very slow party. In the end he climbed back down the entire pitch, and we abseiled off to the ground.

cmars89 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
sam duckworth 22/Aug/15 AltLd
with Craig
DubyaJamesDubya 21/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Pitches 1 and 3 are great. Quite a lot of broken rock on pitch 2 and the pitch to the summit had a lot of loose rock, also lacking hangers on 2 of the three bolts mentioned. Probably a two and a half star route.

with Ian Smith
Steve Perry 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

What an amazing climb! I led P1,3,5. P1 was nowhere near as bad with the polish as I thought (try Tigers don't Cry at Shorn Cliff if you wanna see real polish) and was as people say around VS 5a, the crux is the first bulge. P2 was nothing special, P3 is easy and amazing with jugs galore and loads of bolts/gear. P4 is a lot of climbing with one hard move just over mid way but very good. P5 is a doddle. The abseil is great fun.

brockers 18/Aug/15 AltLd

Lovely airy traverse. First pitch felt hard. Fab freehanging ab descent between the towers.

cayteye 16/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

I led the first hardest pitch V+

with Peri
Hidden 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Kevster 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Not that much polish considering.

duncana 02/Jul/15 AltLd

Guidebook said polished, I thought it wasn't too bad on my main pitches (1st and 3rd). 3rd pitch traverse under roof was excellent. We would have done another route here but there were rumbles of thunder that turned to a soaking on the walk out so we made the right decision!

with Pippa Archer
bobpilgrem 26/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Lead first 4 pitches, Jon led final pitch to top out. Polish doesn't really detract from quality as holds are all positive.Pitches all interesting with obvious bolted belays. VS 4c/5 a ? Abseil descent long and tricky-5 abseils in total, the gully between towers very loose.

Hidden 26/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Flavio 05/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
MichaelGallimore 05/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and the big groove pitch (amazing!) Flavio led the traverse, rob led the sketchy loose bit. Topped out in hail to a frozen flavio. Best abseil descent I've ever done. Through the middle of the towers.

with Rob
Hidden 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Marti999 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
james1978 ?/Sep/14 AltLd
with pam
hazeysunshine 18/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Alex
cameron_hall 16/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1, 3, 5. Steep and tricky on P1 - definitely woke me up!

chrisallan 16/Aug/14 AltLd
owen gibson 06/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/14 Lead O/S
ElStevo13 ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dad
daveclarke5 ?/Aug/14 AltLd
with Stephen
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Paula Ryan ?/Jul/14 AltLd
with Robin Brooke
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
p.j.deacon 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Great mountain day, first pitch is super polished, but the other pitches are fine. Awesome abseil between the towers on the way down.

with James Rushford
Fran Sgr 03/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Jay C
Jay C 03/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Fran S
BigTone 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Lead it all. P1 is the hard bit. P3 up the flake and the traverse is awesome. One hard move on P4. Didn't place a single nut and only used 2 cams. Felt like VS.

Gramps24 05/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Led last Pitch

with BigTone
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead
Mike-W-99 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led even pitches as per Kohler guide (V,IV,V,V,III). Good route that puts you in some interesting positions, felt about vs5a. Only P1 has any significant polish. Made up our own abseil descent which was somewhat exciting.

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Done in 5 pitches, led 1, 3 and 5. Pitch 1 is nowhere near as polished as I'd expected. Pitch 3 is simply stunning (so so glad I'd taken cams!!), with a totally out there traverse along the flake crack. Pitch 4 is pretty damn good too. A really nice climb.

with Mike
Hidden 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
ClimberJimmyB 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
MarkJB ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Paula Ryan ?/Jul/13 2nd
with Robin Brooke
Zoe Cockburn ?/Jul/13 AltLd
kingjam ?/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd
Hidden 05/Aug/12 -
Hidden 05/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead
centurion05 ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with dyl
williamsd79 30/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
centurion05 30/Jul/12 AltLd
with dyl
Swotson 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Excellent climbing! Amazing positions.

with Ian Athroll
Sankey 09/Jul/12 AltLd
with Jon
jshields 09/Jul/12 AltLd
tomhull 06/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

tried this the day before but retreated before the weather hit so determined this time. got soaked to the skin and the abbed the line from the top.

with matt harris
Hidden 06/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
guy757 20/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 15/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
stevorobs3 07/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

difficult to work out the decent in the dark! look for a tunnel on the west face to enter the west side of the gully between the west and north towers.

with Giovanni Milandri
Jamie Degel ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Norbert Ramm (DAV Hamburg)
Little AndyH 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Camilla West
Hidden 26/Jun/11 AltLd
roberts1234567890 11/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Rebecca Murray
Hidden 15/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Sep/10 2nd β
uphillnow ?/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden 18/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Selbatron 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S
seeroo 22/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Descent not as nice as the guidebook makes out

with Scone
Elsier 21/Jul/10 AltLd

Second pitch only, was planning to lead the last, but thunderstorm was approaching so decided it would be quicker if Stuart lead. Very polished first pitch, was tricky.

with Stuart
Hidden 17/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 01/Jul/10 AltLd
jimmyrua 01/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Tom J, Emily Ward
mick grim ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 2nd
markfairbank 30/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

VS 5a more appropriate? Certainly not a fully bolted trad route. Decent warm-up for us, not too polished.

with SteveyM
SteveMyatt 29/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Mark Fairbank
jonnie3430 21/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Graham, Hannah
GraMc ?/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with hannah gibbs, jonnie williams
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
nathanlee ?/Sep/09 2nd β

polish-tastic

rdi1v07 28/Aug/09 Lead

7 pitches

Luis SD 22/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/09 AltLd
Barry D 22/Jul/09 AltLd
with Derek
Hidden 08/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Sankey 02/Jul/09 Lead

P1 only, polished - VS-HVS

with Andy E
Hidden ?/Jun/09 AltLd
Marq 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Returned for another go, AMAMM raind from 2nd pitch on!

Marq 12/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Backed off after first pitch due to rain

Hidden 12/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
French Erick 22/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

brassic, snow flurries... protected under the overhang though!

decs 19/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Sam and Katie
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
John HW 13/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

A great climb - 1st pitch polished finshed route in a mixture of rain and hailstones which made the last pitch challenging

with Cath
donkster 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with mudders
Hidden 13/Aug/06 AltLd
DavidR 13/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Andy Clarke 02/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Led Ps 1,3,5.

with James
Hidden ?/Sep/05 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Antony Mariani ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with rlrs
Neil Adams ?/Jun/04 AltLd
andyinglis ?/Jun/04 AltLd
rlrs ?/Jun/04 AltLd
crossdressingrodney 19/Jul/02 AltLd
with scouse pete
Hidden 11/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
adamwesthead 17/Jun/01 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1,3,4,6

with Hoult
cem 29/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Ruth Shuter
Hidden 02/Jul/95 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/79 AltLd O/S
Peter Main 05/Aug/74 2nd

First Dolomite Climb, found rock loose and apparently slippy, was unhappy in PA's but could have led it, a good start

with Robin Andrews
Campbell42 28/Aug/71 Lead O/S

not sure of exact day

with Bev Barratt
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Voting
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set