100m.

Rockfax Description
A short but elegant route which follows the prominent corner on excellent rock.
Start below the large corner between the sport climbs on the left and the classic Via delle Guide around the corner on the right.
1) V+, 45m. Climb 5m on the north face then move left, bridging the corner, to reach a horizontal break. Follow the crack in the corner to belay in a niche.
2) V+, 20m. Continue direct for 5m then traverse right to reach the arete. From here climb directed to a good belay. The slightly harder Scoiattoli variant goes direct from the cave, following the crack to reach the second belay.
3) III+, 45m. Follow the arete then move right onto the west face and continue on juggy rock to reach the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
3 Pitch trad route - 5,5+,3

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Louvet 18 Sep, 2018 2nd With Guacomole
With Guacomole
Hidden 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd
disturbed_one51 5 Aug, 2018 Lead Lead P1 + 2. Pitch one was great corner climbing with some comically dubious fixed gear ( one thin peg and one very bent one) the two bolts made things nicer. The second pitch was ok but in hindsight I would of preferred to battle the crack further as the Arete was super easy climbing.
Lead P1 + 2. Pitch one was great corner climbing with some comically dubious fixed gear ( one thin peg and one very bent one) the two bolts made things nicer. The second pitch was ok but in hindsight I would of preferred to battle the crack further as the Arete was super easy climbing.
mapperley samurai 3 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead P2. Bit of a one move wonder, unlike P1 which just kept giving. Has to offer it Andy after choosing the shady corner in place of the sun baked, ginger repelling via finlandia. Well worth doing though. Pitch one was an amazing pitch.
with Andy Hemsted
Lead P2. Bit of a one move wonder, unlike P1 which just kept giving. Has to offer it Andy after choosing the shady corner in place of the sun baked, ginger repelling via finlandia. Well worth doing though. Pitch one was an amazing pitch.
with Andy Hemsted
Hidden 1 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
9fingerjon 1 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Wow - tough 1st pitch. Very Sustained and felt very run out at the top as the crack is too wide unless you had a really big cam. Might be worth spliting using the bolt at the first break to get some gear back! 2nd pitch felt very straightforward for V+ after the battle in the corner. 3* experience and line!
Wow - tough 1st pitch. Very Sustained and felt very run out at the top as the crack is too wide unless you had a really big cam. Might be worth spliting using the bolt at the first break to get some gear back! 2nd pitch felt very straightforward for V+ after the battle in the corner. 3* experience and line!
hutchay 18 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Led pitches 1 and 3
Led pitches 1 and 3
Hidden 16 Sep, 2017 2nd dnf
Guy Arnold 16 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf Did first pitch then fled due to weather/very slippy rock. First pitch is pretty run out in sections therefore not recommended in the wet
with Dave Adler
Did first pitch then fled due to weather/very slippy rock. First pitch is pretty run out in sections therefore not recommended in the wet
with Dave Adler
james1978 29 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Andrei
with Andrei
TeddyC 13 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S superb first pitch, rock quality was fine
with dad
superb first pitch, rock quality was fine
with dad
Hidden ?Aug, 2017 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
malone 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Appleby
with Appleby
Appleby 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with malone
with malone
colin milton 25 Jun, 2017 AltLd lead P1. Sustained. Abed to ground from 2nd belay
with eric milton
lead P1. Sustained. Abed to ground from 2nd belay
with eric milton
beardy mike ??, 2017 -
Hidden 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
MrRiley 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Great sustained climbing in the corner and good exposure on pitch 2. Excellent rock. http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2016/09/dolomiti-super-summer/
Great sustained climbing in the corner and good exposure on pitch 2. Excellent rock. http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2016/09/dolomiti-super-summer/
Debbie Lee 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd What a line!
with MrRiley
What a line!
with MrRiley
Lynn Robin 22 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
PanzerHanzler 22 Jul, 2016 2nd dnf Bailed after P1 due to incoming thunder storm.
with Martin Hore, Lynn Robin
Bailed after P1 due to incoming thunder storm.
with Martin Hore, Lynn Robin
PilarMartinez 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Julesthe1st 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S First route of the week. Freezing in the shade. Pilar dropped a rack of wires. Good route
First route of the week. Freezing in the shade. Pilar dropped a rack of wires. Good route
thetradlad 15 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with yarrow
with yarrow
yarrow 15 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead P3. Great climbing throughout.
Lead P3. Great climbing throughout.
Flavio 14 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
the power 9 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Andy Peak 1 ?Sep, 2015 AltLd First route in dollies
with phill ukc
First route in dollies
with phill ukc
Cheese Monkey 30 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Not loose at all. Very good, very sustained! Led p1 and p2. Swiss guide had an accident on p1 following us which dampened the mood.
Not loose at all. Very good, very sustained! Led p1 and p2. Swiss guide had an accident on p1 following us which dampened the mood.
RonnydeWeerd 26 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Tom ten Voorde
with Tom ten Voorde
timmyhobby 22 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Pitch 1 and 2
Pitch 1 and 2
cayteye 17 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Peri
with Peri
hazeysunshine 20 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S P1 only - ab'd off in the rain
with Alex
P1 only - ab'd off in the rain
with Alex
xphoenix0 31 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with sam
with sam
Keendan ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Loose and scary, you have to climb everything statically in case it breaks
Loose and scary, you have to climb everything statically in case it breaks
Luis SD 11 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams ?Jun, 2004 AltLd
andyinglis ?Jun, 2004 AltLd
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Voting
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set